Just wondering… is it possible (and easy) to take the couplers of an HO loco or rolling stock and replace them with a different kind? Also, which coupler is most widely used? I’m just a begginer modeler, so if you could answer this it’d be great! Thanks!!!
It’s possible (and if you have the horn hook couplers preferable) to replace them. It’s quite easy changing them out on Athearn and better qualitly models, but on the cheaper ones it can get difficult.
The other upgrade I recommed is changing out plastic wheels for metal. The added weight and knuckle couplers are worth it!
To answer your other question, Kadee #5s are the most common type of coupler, their official name is “knuckle coupler” but they’re usually refered to as “Kadees” even though MicroTrains, McHenry, Bachman (stay away from these) make compatible one.
www.kadee.com(brothers Keith & Dale, KD) manufacture over 40 different couplers
for various applications. KD also makes coupler tools,uncouplers and pricey freight cars , wheel sets etc as you will see from the above home page.
Not all locos and rolling stock accept the same coupler
When changing over to KD go to the coupler conversion site,www.kadee.com/conv/list.htm
You may also wi***o buy the coupler height gauge,KD #380-205 and trip pin pliers #380-237. Both may be seen at www.kadee.com and scrolling down to “List by product number” and click on product 80-249
The KD #5 has been the most popular and the newest, #58 is closer to scale. To see them click on product 1-79
Also vist http://www.nmra.org/beginner/couplers.html
As Puck mentioned"metal wheel sets as an additional up-grade.
http://www.trains.com/Content/Dynamic/Articles/000/000/002/197xvpbs.asp
http://www.nmra.org/beginner/wheelsets.html
Some modelers prefer to clean out the bearing journals on the truck before a new wheel set install.
www.micromark.com and type in #82838 and up pops the truck tuner. Click on description"truck tuner" for a picture.
There’s a few tricks to couplers and wheel sets so come on back and POST your questions
I have some old Baker Couplers. I have a friend who still likes the NMRA X-2. I like the Kadee steel couplers. I bend the glad hand to be 1/4 inch below the knuckle because it can stop a train if it fails to cleat the track frogs and throwout pieces.
I believe couplers should be attached to the model with screws and threads. The coupler really takes a beating hence the Kadee steel is rugged. But the snap-on or friction held parts will not last on track. By drilling, tapping and adding 0-80 screws, washers and nuts, the couplers are permanently attached and very nice held at the proper height for the life of the car.
Kadee couplers like a minimum car weight of 2 and a 1/2 oz
IMHO the Athern or Concor wheel sets perform as well as any but I tune up the bearings with The Tool and poli***he ends of the axles with an Arkansas stone. I think the metal wheel argument is wishful thinking and marketing hokum. We have car races on the club 1 % grade. Work on the bearings and gage; keep the wheels round and you can compete with us.
Not mentioned by the previous responses is the NMRA gage properly applied to be sure wheels fit the track. There is a hole for the coupler height on the NMRA gage but most of us like the Kadee #206 gage for HO couplers.
LOL LINDSAY
Thanks for the info guys! I just got a Bachman Overland Limited set with E-Z mate couplers so if what you say is true I may replace those. Another question, can different couplers interchange with another?
knuckle couplers can usually interchange and X2F or horn-hook or as some may say X$#* couplers will interchange, but they won’t change with each other (nicely…It is possible to get a coupling, but you almost have to ruin a coupler to get them apart!)