OK, so I have the paint (Craftsmart Terra-Cotta - just the color I need).
I have the details ready (short lengths of 1/4in metal tubing, primed with red automobile primer - nice smooth coat).
I have artist brushes (e.g. decent quality wide flat brushes), and, well, I have water (not distilled, though).
I’ve searched the web for advice, (even a few threads on this forum which touched upon Craft paints); alas, so far test runs have result in either a blotchy finish with noticble brush strokes (too little water, I guess), or are too runny (too much water) and blob down as gravity does its thing - such results are not good.
I accept I’m doing something wrong, so what is a good method for achieving reasonably smooth finishes on small details by brushing craft paint (meaning no brush marks, no blobs, no blotchy finish).
Yes, I could get better results more easily with Floquil or Model Master, but the Terra-Cotta color nicely matches many prototypes (chimney pots, if you want to know - pretty common in modern low density housing), the paint seems fairly good, and 69 cents beats 3.59 right now. I’ve had success drybrushing with Craft Paint in the past, but that’s generally more of an accent color where blotchyness isn’t as apparently anyway. I did also check the Airbrush Craft Paints (airbrushing not viable at this time) and the Acrylic On Styrene threads on this forum (“Use a good brush” - yes, and?).
Suggestions to get that Craft paint to cover those detail parts smoothly?
Is it possible you are running into an incompatability between the auto primer, a solvent based paint, and the water color “Craft Paint” you’re using? Perhaps mixing in a (very) small amount of dish soap or alcohol would break the surface tension of the water paint and allow more even coverage and bonding.
“Craft Paints” in general do not feature the extremely finely ground pigmentation of paints formulated for miniatures. Quite the opposite, they often are on the slightly thick side to help hide minor flaws in finishing. As a consequence, they can mask small detail and suffer “drop out” when thinned in an attempt to make up for their shortcomings. Doesn’t sound like your chimney pots need the finer pigment though.
Hope you haven’t gotten backed up against the “you get what you pay for” wall.
Did you scuff the primer before painting? Like a scuff pad, that is on one side of a dish washing sponge. A lot of people have a misconception, that you can paint right over primer and that is not true. The paint will adhere better when scuffed, it will also be smoother that way. Red Sable brush, not a imitation. Good Luck! Also the metal should have been lightly sanded before the primer coat.
The concept of thinning Craft paint with Future is interesting and something I haven’t heard of before (Windex & Alcohol, OTOH…). Thinning with Alcohol would serve the purpose that Lou mentioned.
For Frank, actually I normally do paint over primer (after washing it again to remove dirt and oils from handling), don’t normally scuff it, but it’s worth testing out. Now, the Red Sable brush, hmm, that I don’t think I have (I have good brushes, but I don’t think any of my three flat Shaders are sable).
I know by experience, that alcohol does not work with all craft paints, so test it out first. I’m not sure of the different brands, but I have some that actually thicken and coagulate with alcohol. I think that brand is Apple…something…not sure, it has Apple in the name. I find distilled water works the best. I’ve never tried the Future thing, but I only use the craft paint for some structure items, figures, and scenery items.
Future Floor Finish is an acrylic gloss coat, simiar to Last and Last.
i haven’t tried it as an aditive to the “cheapo” craft paint (use Future to pre for decaling). It’s properties may actally help the paint flow better and act to thin to gain a better brush finish. I am only guessing, here. Sounds like an experiment is in order. It really may work quite well using the experience I have from spraying or brushing “house/ trim” paints and adding Floetrol additive (paint conditioner and retards drying to eliminate brush marking and allows to lay down flat w/o affecting the properties of the paint). The Future may provide the same results.
Flotrol for waterbased enamels and Penatrol for solvent(oil) based enamels are products used as paint conditioners by professional painters. They help enamel flow and level better thus reduce application marks. Not sure how they would work in a hobby setting but they might work. Probably not worth buying the quart to find out though. Especially when you probably only need a drop or two. Got any neighbors or friends that are painters?