Over the years, I’ve seen photos of, and read stories about, railroad crews experiencing a locomotive that has died or quit loading and they are in jeopardy of stalling their train. In these instances one of the crew members is usually seen frantically working inside the engine compartment, trying to get the unit back on line. This got me to wondering how the locomotive is brought back on line while the train is moving, especially if the enginneer has the other units at full throttle. Does the dead or non-loading unit crank up and immediately go to full power? Seems like this would be a good way to pull apart the train, what with several thousand horses coming on line all at once. Whats the procedure for handling this type of problem? Look forward to hearing from some of our railroaders about this.
There’s a little thing that used to be called an “isolation switch”, which had two positions: “Start/Stop/Isolate” and “Run” To isolate an engine meant to take it off-line, so the engine couldn’t be cranked unless it was off-line. In the old days (from which I’m familiar with locomotives), the start button and isolation switch were both in the cab. You can’t crank 'em from the cab any more, but I’m not sure where the isolation switch (or whatever GE may call it) is.
I have a feeling that someone restarting a unit (assuming that he’s successful) would have to do some verbal coordination with his engineer before bringing it back on line, because of the considerations you mentioned.
Now, let’s get someone who knows what he’s taklking about in here!
GE also calls it an isolation switch and it’s in the cab. The newer GEs have a three position switch. Run, isolate and start. When starting these, the switch is put in the (you guessed it) start position.
Some of the newer EMDs I have noticed have a position that isolates the engine from producing power, but still allows the dynamic braking to function.
The newer units (EMD anyway) are going back to having the start switch in the cab. There are still many running around that have to be started back along the engine from the walkway.
Last trip going out, I had a computer glitch shut down all three engines. When restarting once stopped, two were started from the cab, the other from the walkway behind the cab.
On our locomotives (MK1500Ds) the start switch is inside the cab.
Positions are as follows using a “clock face” arrangement…
Stop is about 10:30, 12 straight up is isolate, 1:30 is run, and start (crank) is at 3 o’clock.
There is a relay, just like in your automobile, that prevents you cranking an engine that is already running…you can flip the switch to run with the diesel engine already running and the starter will not engage.
We have them die on us all the time, I routinely get in the second cab and start it back up while we are moving.
When it starts, simply put it back into the run position, and it will rev back up to the throttle setting the controlling locomotive is using.
Most of the Dash 9s I have been on have the same set up, and most of the EMDs past the SD40-2 stage also have the same type of switch in the cab…SD40s and back you get to stand on the walk way with one of the hood doors banging into you and mess with the primer/start switch in the engine compartment.
All of the ones I have used have an emergency fuel cut off switch on the rear cab wall, and one on both sides of the walkway sill, where it can be reached from the ground.
To answer your question is when a unit is started as soon as the doors are closed ill put it on line. i dont care if it is notch 8 or not. this is because if you need the power it wont tear the train apart it will only help. the power comes on gradual ( fast ) but gradual until its at full throttle, also like i stated being you need the power it wont be enough to pull it apart if the train was overpowered it might do that but still underpowered trains today not a chance
One thing that you have to watch out for when EMD’s back on line is to wait for the oil pressure to come up on the gauge in the engine room or the engine will quit again.
I know it seems natural in the heat of the eighth notch moment to start the engine and run back inside and put it on line as quick as possible. However, more often than not, the unit will kick the govenor button out again. Just wait until the oil pressure comes up on the gauge, then go back inside to put it on line and you will save yourself a whole lot of running back and forth.
never had that problem if the engine is running put it on line and go. after reading your post again you are right why i said what i did is because before i close the door and head up i made sure i had readings on the unit. that is why i had no problems
As always, I thank everyone for their answers and comments.
A question for Ed Blysard in Houston: You mention that the MK1500s you operate seem to die on you often. Why is this? I’ve never been near one of these engines, but they seem to be well designed for yard work.
