For a while I have been considering the Crest basic train engineer for my garden railway. My layout has about 140’ of track in an area about 50 x 14 feet. I don’t run more than one train at a time. My power pack is an MRC E200,which produces a tad under two amps. My main reservation about buying the basic train engineer is the engines that I run. Both are home made and each one runs on a pair of Aristocraft motor blocks. Unlike Aristocraft locos, the power blocks on mine are not electrically connected. My worry is that the basic train engineer would treat each motor block as a separate locomotive and fail, since the unit is designed to operate only one engine. Is this a realistic fear or just a figment of my imagination? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Bob
Bob,
The “basic” train engineer is basically a remote controll throttle that is connected between your power pack and your track. It will not think that the 2 motor blocks are seperate all it can do is control what voltage is put to the track. This is the reason it can really only control one train. You could get it to control more trains if you wanted every train to do the same thing at the same time, ie. increase speed, slow down, stop etc. But for what you want it sounds like the “basic” train engineer would be fine.
Later,
Jack
Hi Bob,
[#ditto]
It is worth considering the all singing and dancing ‘engineer’, if your RR expands/ another circuit etc then you will have the capability to control your loco’s from one handset through the multi channel function. Worth a thought. You would have to up the power though!
Cheers,
Kim
[tup]
Hi Bob
As Kim says, the top of the range TE is better. I can control more than one track and it also controls my LGB switch motors. If you buy the basic, you will only want the bigger one later.
All the best
Ian P
HI Bob
I have some of the 10 amp 5470 sets and like them, they are strong enough to run one train with 3 engines pulling a long train.
I also have one of RCS 10 amp units and like it also.
If you plan to stay in the hobby for a while I’d get the bigger so you can grow into it.
I was cheap at first on everything i bought unit I realized I was into this for life and sold off my older stuff.
If you think your layout has reached its maximum size or that you will never run more than 1 train at a time , then the BTE is great! This is what I use too. Jack described it pretty good, its a receiver that gets installed between the power pack and the track, (in a weatherPROOF location mind you, the thing is not watertight) and the a R/C controller is used to regulate the voltage going to the track. The powerpack is recommended set at 3/4 or 4/5 full power. Its basicly a radio controlled powerpack, but you control forward-reverse, faster-slower, and an emergency stop which cut the power off.
Overall for smaller, simpler layouts its the best thing since sliced cheese!
BTW I often double head two LGB porter engines to haul the track cleaner around, no problems with the multiple engines. One thing the BTE has a 2 amp MAX power limit, if your powerpack is higher, then you will have to go up to the next level.
Jack and Vic
Thank you for your replies. Since I had no plans to expand my layout the basic train engineer would have worked fine.However, I mentioned to my wife that you guys gave me the technical advice I had requested only hours earlier. She leaned over my shoulder and read all of the replies.
Kim, Ian and Marty
My wife read your advice and agreed with it wholeheartedly. She said “Aren’t we going to extend the track a bit and add a trolley line?” That was news to me. Looks like I’ll have to buy a new power pack and the the advanced train engineer set. Oh well, I guess that there a bunch of guys who wi***hey had my problem.
Thanks All!
Bob
Yep I’m one of them.[(-D][(-D][(-D][(-D]
Good Luck with it!!![swg]
Vic, I use a PH Hobbies PS-3 powerpack. I never turn it up even halfway…would it be too much for the Crest BTE to handle? I only run one Porter at a time, and the RR is quite small.
SandyR
I don’t even know what it is !
Rgds ian
Take off those LGB blinders[:D].
Sandy
I’ve never used a PH Hobbies PS-3 powerpack so I dont know what the maximum amp is, it should be easy to find out either from the label (if any) on it or by contacting the mfr. as long as its 2 amps or less it should be fine. The manual i got with my BTE says the higher than 2 amps will damage the circuitry. I’m pretty sure the BTE was designed with a basic powerpack in mind.[8D]
Bob,
With the wife backing you it’s time to open the throttle and enjoy the ride! [:D] Yes, I’m sure many here envy you now. BTW, time for me to order one too. With everything else in the house having a remote…why not the train?! Later eh…Brian.
I just checked the PS-3. It’s three amps. Now, I’m a total doofuss when it comes to electrical stuff, but isn’t amperage what the loco draws from the powerpack, and not the total of what the pack can put out??
I do run my train quite slow…
SandyR
Sandy
You are not the only doofus about electrical stuff. I won’t change a light bulb unless there is some one else in the house to call 911. I do know however , that if your PS-3 is labled three amps it is too powerful to use with the train engineer.
Bob
Sandy,
Ok the 3 amp rating on the power pack is what it is capable of putting out. If all you run is the single porter and such you shouldn’t be using the full 3 amps. Also if you have been using your Basic Train Engineer and it hasn’t let it’s magic smoke out yet you’re not even using 2 amps. That said you, you do know that you have the ability to let the smoke out of the T.E. If you aren’t going to do anything different with your railroad like start running multiple trains and such you should be fine. I’m not sure if any of the larger trains draw over 2 amps by themselves that would be something to look into and check before purchasing or using with the basic T.E. Also you could install an ammeter or temporarily install a multi meter into the wiring between the powerpack and the track (without the T.E. installed) run the loco-motive from a crawl to full speed and see how much of a current draw the said loco takes to operate. If you can go all the way to full throttle with it and you are still under 2 amps the basic T.E. will be fine. Now with all this does the Basic T.E. have any sort of protection device for itself? (fuse, circuit breaker) if not be careful if it has a fuse try to keep an extra on hand ( always remember if a fuse burns up it did so for a reason, try to correct the problem before installing a new fuse) Hope this all helps, if I’ve confused anyone e-mail me and I’ll try to straighten it out.
Later,
Jack
Quite the contrary, Jack, it makes perfect sense. And I have a multimeter that I got from Harbor Freight (who knows how accurate!) that I can test with. I do know that the Porters pull less than one amp, and I’m probably running mine at about 6-7 volts, because the headlight comes on at 5V, and I only run a hair faster than that. But I will certainly check with the meter!
SandyR