Crossings for Code 55 N scale ME track

Re-doing my N scale layout and would like to incorporate a couple of crossings. Using Micro Engineering code 55 flex track and turnouts. I know in HO one can usually mix track, turnouts and such from different manufacturers as long as they are the same rail code. But not in N scale, where each track maker seems to have their own way of doing things (Peco code 55 isn’t true code 55 but code 80 buried in the ties, for example, Atlas follows a different philosophy with their C55, etc.). Near as I can find out, ME doesn’t offer turnouts, and my eyes aren’t that good at my age to hand-lay crossings in N. Also, when was the last time ANY of the magazines ran an article on hand-laying crossings? They only show turnouts. Help, please.

Mixing Micro Engineering Code 55 with Atlas Code 55 crossings shouldn’t be an issue. The only thing I’ve noticed is the end profiles of the ties and maybe the tie spacing.

I’ve joined the Micro Engineering Code 70, of the visible part of my layout with Atlas Code 80, in hidden staging, with no problems at all. Matching Code 55 with Code 55 of another manufacturer shouldn’t create any problem, especially after the track is painted and ballasted.

And for the record, Micro Engineering does make turnouts in Code 55.

I think Jack meant to say Micro Engineering doesn’t offer crossings, not turnouts. Regardless, I have not had any trouble combining Micro Engineering code 55 and Atlas code 55.

I appologize if my statement was taken as an insult, it was only meant to clarify.

The one thing I really like about the Micro Engineering flex track, is that it can be gotten preweathered. I used it on my layout. Unfortunately their turnouts aren’t offered that way.

It saves alot of time painting the track, but matching the tunouts is a fairly simple task. Here’s a shot of my layout to give you an idea of how it turned out.

Exactly; I hadn’t caught it when I typed the message in originally. As to combining ME and Atlas: did you have to do anything special in the way of joining the two? Joiners or just solder the rail? I can go either way, as I have a resistance soldering station that I use for soldering track feeders and rails together.

Question: does anyone make templates like the Fast Tracks turnout fixtures but for N scale crossings?

Fast Tracks makes fixtures for crossings also. Here is their website:http://www.handlaidtrack.com/index.php, and here is their page on N-Scale crossings:http://www.handlaidtrack.com/category.php?id=552&link_str=126::529::552

When combining ME and Atlas I do not do anything special, I just treat them like they are the same brand of track.

Mike,
Excellent work. Did you paint the turnouts or use the ME weathering soultion? If you painted them, if you don’t mind me asking, waht method did you use? Your turnouts do blend very well with the pre-weathered flex-track.

Robert,

I used a mix of Floquil tie brown and roof brown to match the color. I used Floquil instead of Pollyscale because I use alcohol to wet my ballast and didn’t want it to wash the paint off.

I brushed the paint on in several coats till the color looked right. I used the same paint on all the rail joiners and soldered power connections to help them blend in too.

PS: The Micro Engineering weathering solution is a mild corrosive. I suspect that it would compromise the connections in the turnouts. It took a bit of work, with a bright boy, to get the tops of the rails cleaned off.

Fast tracks has templates on their website (which are free). I believe they have a crossing template.

Here is the link to their crossing templates.

http://www.handlaidtrack.com/sub_category.php?id=370&link_str=334::368::370

Mike, I just wanted to say I’ve noticed now in a few of your picture posts your very nice rockwork. Your mountains actually look like real rock!

Nice job. Your scenery skills are very convincing[:D]

Dustin,

Thanks for the kind words. It’s just Sculptamold over roughly formed expanded styrene insulation.

The trick is spraying the wet Sculptamold with dyes for the color. It penetrates while the finish is still wet and fades slightly as it dries.

I learned the prcess from my neighbor, his whole garage is an N scale layout.