I’m intrigued by the “disappearing” layout that Peter Riddle described on page 46 of the February 2009 CTT magazine, but I’m not sure about how to get all the track and switches.
On e-Bay, I had no problem finding Lionel 0-22 switches. However, I could only find 0-31 curves in Realtrax, not Lionel. I suppose I could use 0-36 switches instead, but that would great increase the size of the layout, which I want to avoid.
I’m also confused about the comment he made about trying to match FasTrack, since FasTrack doesn’t seem to have 0-22 switches. All the 0-22 stuff I saw looked like post war track, not “roadbed” track.
Hey Jim, regular lionel “o” gauge curves are “031” It’s usually common knowledge that’s why they’re just listed as “0” gauge curves, all the other lionel radius curves are listed accordingly ie: 042, 054, 072. As for matching fastrack to standard tubular, I can’t be of much help since I’m one of those old holdouts that still uses tubular track…lol… Vince
I’m intrigued by the “disappearing” layout that Peter Riddle described on page 46 of the February 2009 CTT magazine, but I’m not sure about how to get all the track and switches.
On e-Bay, I had no problem finding Lionel 0-22 switches. However, I could only find 0-31 curves in Realtrax, not Lionel. I suppose I could use 0-36 switches instead, but that would great increase the size of the layout, which I want to avoid.
I’m also confused about the comment he made about trying to match FasTrack, since FasTrack doesn’t seem to have 0-22 switches. All the 0-22 stuff I saw looked like post war track, not “roadbed” track.
Any thoughts / comments?
Thanks,
Jim
You are bogged down in one of the most confusing aspects of the three-rail toy trains hobby. Go to www.lionel.com and check out the lastest product catalog. I think you will find sections on O, 0-27, and FasTrack. If you want to bring the track of other manufacturers into consideration, you can further complicate things to your heart’s delight; but be advised that your problem cannot be adequately addressed in a few sentences.
Eventually you will need to be able to distinguish among the terms, gauge; scale radius; diameter; center-rail-to center rail; outside rail to outside rail; overall diameter; rail height; adapter section; rail height; “make” a given curve; make a given curve and not get hung up on the switch-motor housing, etc. etc. The terminology is totally screwed up, Most of the folks on the forums think they have it straight; but few do and even fewer can explain it coherently. Sorry, that’s just the way it is.
Study the catalogs and come back with specific questions. For openers, the term “022 switch” the 022 is simply the designation of a product, it does not say anything about the radiu
The term “O31” is a neologism. In their heyday, Lionel just used “O” for the stuff that is nowadays called “O31”. It was their regular product line. They acquired their cheaper “O27” line from Ives around 1930. O27 is pretty accurately 27 inches in diameter to the ends of the ties, hence the name. O31 is about 30 1/2 inches to the ends of the ties, which is why it is sometimes called “O30”. The radius of O27, to the center rail, is 12 1/2 inches. The radius of O31, to the center rail, is 10 inches times the square-root of 2, or about 14 1/8 inches.
In their catalogs and advertising, Lionel used the capital letter “O”, not the numeral “0”. Properly written, the turnout model number “022” is slightly less confusing with that in mind.
Bob, forgive me for questioning you, but I’ve just been going through this (see …drives me nuts! post), and my real live 031 circle measured 14 1/2, or 14 7’16 , perhaps a bit less if I could get all the sections to fully butt, but doubtful it would become 14 1/8 on center rails. Where does the 10 x sq rt of 2 come from??
This is a complicated question… it comes from basic track system geometry calculations derived from a basic layout configuration that looks like an oval, with a center figure 8 crossing made with 4 switches. All straights are the same length & match the straight portion of the switches, the curves (all of them 45 degrees) all match the turnout leg of the switches, and all straights are full-length uncut sections. It takes 1 full standard straight on each of the 4 legs to reach the 90 degree X in the crossing, & two full standard straights on each side of the oval to connect the straight legs of the switches on each side. A 45 degree crossing is two standard 45 degree curves imposed on top of each other(and as such can be “plugged in” in place of any such standard curve in the layout).
A parallel line diverging from the main with a standard switch is able to rejoin the main with another switch, all with full straight & curve sections - no custom cutting.
The center rail radius requirement turns out to be the length of the straight sections, times the square root of 2.
Once you know how it works, the calculations are easy.
FasTrack O36 straights actually should be 12.73" long. This is why so many “fitter” pieces are needed for this track system - the designer ignored basic track geometry rules. Also, 90 degree X’s would be 10.54" across, & 45 degree X’s would be 14.91" across.
Reading this post I can replay on the “old holdouts” comment. I’m not a big fan of Fast Track. Even on homosote it is loud. I also can’t see spending close to 4 bucks a section, when the old tubular stuff cost 1.25 a section. Plus some of the old trains flanges are to big and bottom out on the plastic roadbed. All I do is make extra ties out of strips of wood to give it a little more real look.