As always I enjoy my issues of CTT (OGR too I might add). This issue, on page 14 & 15, is a picture of what is described as “John Calandriello O Gauge Layout”. That track, however is not O gauge, is it!
Aside from a gorgeous photo I think the track is good old “Super O”. Others think it is Super O with 027rails? Wooden ties? Et al.
I say NO WAY, it is just plain old ordinary “Super O”. What is it?
I definitely agree with you. I just did some work with quite a bit of Super “O” a couple of weeks ago. If one looks carefully at the photo, you clearly see the steel "cleats’ (aka spikes) from the steel plates underneath the track that secures the outer rails to the plastic tie strip. There are three of these steel plates per section that produce the 3 pairs of “cleats” (aka spikes) along each outer rail. The photo of the rail closest to the viewer shows 4 of these on each side of the rail joint that is just left of the telephone pole. You can also see the Super “O” center rail joiner just to the left of the pole also. The other two sets of the cleats to complete the track section can be seen just to the right of the pole and at the far right edge of the photo.
Having personally disassembled Super “O” to make insulated outer rail sections, these steel retainers are not that easy to remove and cut to electrically isolate the two outer rails from each other. I think it is highly unlikely that someone assembled their own version of Super “O” from Super “O” parts.
This is great photo - just wish it were a bit more in focus.
I also really enjoyed the American Flyer photo on page 15! Another great shot.
You could say I am a fan, but my layout is tubular as I needed 0-72 for larger engines. I run pre-war, post-war, and modern era stuff (scale size and traditional).
I have helped some friends that have super O. Too bad it never expanded in scope and availability.
The easiest way to make insulated sections of Super O is to NOT disassemble the track. The factory-made insulated sections have the metal retaining clips in two pieces, separated by a space of about 1/4". I have used a Dremel tool with a cutting disc and cut a space down the middle of the metal clips. Yes, you will cut a bit of the underside of some of the plastic ties, but it is fast and it works. You can do this on curved sections of Super ", as well. Regards,