In another topic, someone mentioned having problems with twin-coil switch machines getting sluggish when they get older. Perhaps my solution for a similar problem might be of use.
Over the years, I’ve had customers who said that their doorbells weren’t up to par. These are the chime kind–the bing-bong style. Inside, there’s a solenoid that lifts a core and then drops it. I have had very good luck with putting a puff of graphite in the tube that the core moves in. I note that the manufacturer frequently has a warning to NEVER use oil for this purpose. I think it wouldn’t be unwise, after the switch machine has been “repaired”, to vacuum up any ramaining loose graphite. It certainly is messy. Perhaps powdered Teflon might work too. I’ve never tried it, as the graphite works so well for me.
I would mention that I think it unwise to ever put oil in the solenoid tube of a switch machine–the warning for the door chime would seem to apply to the switch machine.
When I’ve had problems with reluctant switch machines, the problem has usually proven to be dirt and grunge buildup around the moving parts. Attacking them with solvent cleaner (without added oil - no WD40, please) and a couple of Q-tips usually worked wonders.
I use the old open-frame machines sold by Kemtron and others many moons ago. They are definitely NOT dustproof, nor have my present and past layout spaces borne any resemblance to NASA clean rooms, so I have had to clean switch machines on numerous occasions.
I agree that oil isn’t the way to fly - it speeds grunge accumulation. At one time I used powdered molybdenum, but these days I don’t bother.
I agree on the oil. DON’T USE IT! It attracts dust and turn everything into a gummy mess. Graphite works good, except that graphite conducts electricity and can cause a short circuit. It can also ignite and explode. I’m a fire dept safety officer, I’ve experimented with stuff like this. If you’re going to use powdered anything, I recommend a product called Zip-it.
Or try a totally different approach - add a capacitive discharge circuit. This will give your switch machines a whole lot more kick, and will also protect them somewhat against sticking control buttons that might otherwise fry them.
I have a number of old Atlas machines left over from my teenage years. (I’m 59 now.) A couple of them got sticky, so I put in a small drop of Labelle oil. They may gum up in the future, but they were so old that they needed something. So far, it’s been a year of trouble-free operation.
Jeffrey, thanks for the tip. I’ve been using graphite on my Rix switch machines.
I also take a file and smooth off all the manufacturing burrs on the metal slug. Then I rub the metal slug and the plastic throw bar with graphite. I think I’ll switch to Teflon.
There are studies which indicate that Teflon® is dangerous and may be carcinogenic if ingested. However these studies seem to all center on coated cookware subjected to extremely high temperatures and/or cookware with scratched coatings. I haven’t seen any studies specifically on powered Teflon® but I would certainly avoid inhaling the dust and would wash my hands after using it to avoid ingesting it. Come to think of it, powered graphite in the lungs doesn’t sound too pleasant either.