I’m building my layout with Atlas code 100, including Customline turnouts. I’ve looked on the Atlas web site and apparently they do (did?) make curved turnouts, tho I’ve never seen any at my LHS. I know Peco makes curved turnouts (code 83) but does anyone else in code 100?
Same with slip switches: my LHS has some Peco slips but not code 100 and no slips from any other producers (are there any? All ME turnouts appear to be codes 70 and 83).
Apparently, Atlas made a slip switch at one time as their web site has wiring instructions (below), but there are none shown in production/inventory.
Code 83 for sure, both Peco and Atlas make curved turnouts. Atlas are 22" radius inside curve, Peco are significantly broader. Atlas curved turnouts are dodgy build quality so I only use Peco now.
Peco makes slips in Code 83.
Walthers will probably reproduce the Shinohara slips in Code 83.
Walthers makes convenient transition half straights from Code 83 to Code 100. Also, Atlas makes stepped joiners to level up a piece of Code 83 to Code 100 height.
Atlas recently announced a re-tooling of all their Customline turnouts to be done in stages as tooling wears out. Peco is in the same process converting to their new Insulfrog design. Perhaps your LHS is experiencing supply disruptions. You could get them to order what you need or shop online yourself.
Any particular reason you’re going with Code 100?
We used Code 83 throughout our new layout and I’m using some Code 70 in my new layout to represent older yard tracks.
Try some. I don’t think you’ll prefer Code 100 after trying Code 83.
Good to know. I’d rather not squeeze down to 22" inside radius; but the Peco’s don’t specify a radius on the packaging. What is the largest inside radius Peco makes? I would feel better about a 26 or 28".
I forgot about Shinohara. No matter who I use sounds like I may need to get the transition pieces and just get the code 83 stuff.
I understand that mixing codes is a daunting exercise for people who would rather have an easier time of assembling their track plans, but it needn’t be. As advised in the previous post, you can make two different codes work well, even if they are different makes of track with different tie thicknesses to deal with as well, making the match that much more tricky.
Walthers makes curved turnouts, as does Peco, and I wouldn’t be surprised if Roco or other European makes make them as well, probably Code 100, but I haven’t gone to look. Walthers and Peco will have Code 83, and Peco possibly Code 100 as well. You’ll tend to find broader radius curves in Code 83, at least if you elect to go with Walthers. I believe Walthers is bringing in trackage pieces these days with new tooling or tooling purchased from Shinohara…not sure there.
You can use both universal joiners and adapter joiners to get your rail bearing surfaces to match at grade. It takes some figuring, probably some soldering with the universal variety, but it can work. Use levers and some weight to keep the bearing surfaces where you need them as you fill the universal with solder. It’s a good time to insert a flattened end of 22 gauge copper wire at the same time for a feeder. That flattened tip, where it’s inserted, might afford some leverage to get the less tall rail stock up a mm or so.
Lastly, you can pay for custom-built hand-laid turnouts if you don’t want to make them yourself (it’s surprisingly easy…how hard can it be…I do it. [8-|]). Send the person your pencil drawing of the turnout, real size, and he’ll make it to fit into the geometry.
I’m using Walthers ( re-tooled Shinohara) transition tracks from Code 83 down to Code 70. Basically, Walthers does all the shimming for you by casting a pretty solid short section of the ties under the actual rail change in the centre of the half straight. You can trim the end(s) to fit the transition space you have. I’ve even cut the tie webs to curve the piece of track although the actual transition section isn’t amenable to this and probably should be left straight. In fact, it’s probably best to fit transition joints only in straight track.
Here’s the link to Peco curved turnout scaled template, downloadable and printable:
They have one like this for all their turnout geometries.
Curved turnout radii have been extensively discussed on other threads. I haven’t searched for those recently but the most recent post isn’t that long ago.
Definitely build to Code 83 from now on unless you have a good reason to stay with Code 100. It looks so much better.
Atlas made, actually imported from ROCO, double slip switches way back, in the 70’s/80’s, for a short while.
They have not had them since then.
The wiring diagram you found is for a three rail O scale slip switch from Atlas…
Shinohara made code 100 slip switches, search Ebay, but Shinohara is out of business and Walthers does not seem like they would be bring code 100 back.
They did sell Shinohara code 100 as long as it was available.
Atlas seems to be commited to both code 100 and code 83, they have retooled the code 100 turnouts, there may be a future of expansion there? At least for curved turnouts.
Very gentle curved turnout can be made from regular turnouts. When I get started layout track on the new layout I will do thread. You cut out some of the tie web under the rail and gently bend. It works great fro large radius curved turnouts.
Few of the curved turnouts on the market meet my minimum radius requirement of 36", so I make them, one way or the other. If I can’t curve a factory turnout, I scratch build what I need.
I’m using code 83, and the Walthers slip switches work nice, although I only use them when absolutely necessary.
Thanks. I will have to see what is around on ebay for slips. Oops on the O gauge slip… should have read more closely. On the curved ones I will probably end up going with Peco.
I would suggest you make your own code 100 to code 83 transitions’. I tried several manufactured transitions’ and none gave me a warm and fuzzy feeling so I make my own. Check out my blog for how I make them.
I was going to suggest the used market and ebay for the old Atlas, but they are 22" on the outside and 18" on the inside to match the rest of the customline sectional. So you don’t want them.
So you could look for the Shinohara. I believe there was a 28"/32" they called it a #6, or a 32"/36" that they called a #7.5 in that brand. Be careful with the Shinohara in the used market. The point side ties were very weak, and often broken from the rail.
