I have a 30 degree radius mainline turn (measured at center line of the ties, code 100) where I need a turnout to the inside, or another way of putting it, creating a smaller radius for a siding inside the mainline I have read threads on other curved turnout discussions but continue to be confused on which swith to acquire. Any help?
(If I’m understanding the dimensions correctly)
You will need a curved TO with a main leg of 30" diameter* radius, and a diverging leg of something less - it’ll probably be 24" or 26" radius (maybe even 28").
depending on direction of travel, you will either need the above turnout in left or right hand configuration… (so that it goes to the inside of the initial curve).
Walthers has a list of curved turnouts, although it might take a little digging to find a 30" one - I only did a quick search, but i came up with a few (albeit they didn’t describe the radius of the main route.)
*whoops, wrong word, that’d make a 15" radius curve…
You are correct, and thank you for the correct terminology. I also need a right and a left switch.
If you aren’t afraid to do a little kit-building then I highly recommend the Central Valley switch kits. You assemble them, but there are precast frogs available (HO Scale from Proto:87 stores in #6-#9) so you don’t have to make the frogs. The kits include a frog helper that requires you to file the rail to fit, but I’m going with the cast frogs. The points are cast and the guard rails are plastic, so all you have to do is cut some rail to size and assemble them.
They can be curved into the specific radius you need, then you glue the rail on. The larger turnout numbers are better for curving. I have a relatively small layout, and I’m using all #6 turnouts. The space savings from being able to curve the switches is great. You really gain all of the advantages of handlaid without having to do the most difficult work (filing the frog and points).
I’ll try to post some pictures this weekend.
Randy
30" may be a bit tough to find unless you scratchbuild, but try these on for size:
#6 curved turnout Outside 24” radius, inside 20” radius Walthers/Shinohara
#6-1/2 curved turnout: Outside 24” radius, inside 18” radius Walthers/Shinohara
#7 curved turnout: Outside 28” radius, inside 24” radius Walthers/Shinohara
#7-1/2” curved turnout: Outside 32” radius, inside 28” radius Walthers/Shinohara
#8 curved turnout: Outside 36” radius, inside 32” radius Walthers/Shinohara
A 7 or 7-1/2 may work for your layout.
Karl
Sorry for the delay in posting a response that might help. There was an earlier thread specifically about Walthers/Shinohara turnouts to which I posted this: “To recheck my curved turnout sizes (Walthers/Shinohara Code 83), I built a homemade beam compass, laid-out arcs and overlaid the turnouts. The results are: • #6/#6.5: 24/18 (frog# depends on whether you believe the box label or the imprint on the turnout!) • #7: 28/22 • #7.5: 32/26 • #8: 36/30 I also checked a #4 Code 70: with a 22” radius for the closure rail, it must actually be a #4.5." The inside radii are not what Walthers posts nor are they as imprinted on the underside of the turnouts! Dante