I have never given a thought to hand-laying track. I feel laying track tie by tie rail by rail is both too complex and too time-consuming. However, in the distant past, I recall modifying Lionel 022 switches to obtain closer spacings of adjacent tracks and of course I have cut track.
With the flexible Gargraves track I can create virtually any shape of layout. Add into the mix Ross’s Switches and you have a more robust way to connect track with other track. However, even Ross’s products limits what can be made and accomplished. Sometimes it is not desirable to be stuck using the sections that the good Ross (Steve) gave us.
As always, when in construction and facing a challenge; necessity gives rise to trying something new. My layout consists of 2-mainlines. Both tracks circle my turntable. To get access from the mainline to the turntable, I used a Ross 072 Wye to create a switched connect to the turntable. Unfortunately, I could only make the connection with the Wye on the inner loop since the outer loop was too close to facilitate any of the vast combinations of switches and 072 radius track to both crossover the inner loop to have a line connect to the turntable.
At the one spot I thought I could connect the outer-line, I would need a tight crossover between a second Wye connected to the outer-loop. Specifically, I needed a crossover that was 37 ½ degrees. Wouldn’t you know, Ross makes a 45-degree and a 30-degree. Even so, I needed the crossover to have two 072 radius lead-ins from the 072-wyes at one end and one straight and one 072 radius out-lines at the other end. Confused? See photo. The solution I found was to build a custom crossover. See below.
Alan, that’s some pretty nifty custom chopping. [swg]
Personally, I have no fear of modification such as that. Once you have tried handlaying track, like Dave and I were discussing a few weeks back, a chop job becomes much less daunting. The secret is understanding where you need clearance for the flanges, and how much. Have you got your trains running smoothly through there? I bet you do!!!
Here’s an example of mine.
I just noticed the Walthers spike driver in the photo. I have one too, but I never liked it. I just use a pair of needle nose pliers.
By the way, I was in the hobby store today, and had a chance to get up close and personal with the full line of Ross switches, even the new double silp. I was looking at the construction, and I must say that I’m not overly fond of their frogs. Way too much width in the flangeway. Most of our manufacturers have this problem, and we wonder why our trains derail.[:p][;)][:0]
I used to lay my own track in HO scale with individual spikes and used a set of gauges to keep everything at the right width. Are there gauges made for O Scale?
Buckeye, about gauges, for 2 rail YES, for 3 rail I WISH!!! This brings us to the discussion of 3 rail track standards, and how I truely wi***here were some. Part of the problem is that we need some that accomadate all of the different wheels, past and present.
Alan, am I misunderstanding the pictures of your crossing, or do the rails running lower left to upper right not quite meet the other running rails, where the actual frogs would be? If not, why leave a gap there?
Thanks, I think that for a growing number of us this, this may be the way of the future. There are a couple of products and tools that would be very heplful, and if they were readily available, we might see even more of this kind of thing.[:D]
the center section of my layout is all Lionel tube track; which is where the accessories are; My decision to add 072 or greater loops was based on the great many 072 radius-only engines that I like and the 042" layout limited what I could run.
Bob
As you can see this is a bit more complex that the crossover change in the recent issue of CTT magazine; but it was still fairly easy.
Here’s the best aerial I can do give the height o fthe basement ceiling:
A view (what a mess) showing in 3/4 view
the turntable area note the roadbed was laid out using the laser leveler you see in the middle of the turntable:
A laser level. Alan, what a great idea!!! I have some elevated straight sections I’ve eyeballed to near straight. I can use this tool for something other than hanging pictures and shelves now.
And it was in my toolbox the whole time! Sometimes I can’t see the trees for the forest.
Elliot, You can make your own track gauge.
I made a couple from a blocks of wood.(2x4x 1 1/2" & 4") Cut three grooves in them the width, depth, & spacing of your track. (mine is Gargraves)
Easily done with a table saw.
The blocks can also be used to clamp your track.
