I plan on making some patch-out decals for my Freelance railroad, I was originally planning on using a black background with white lettering, but I was told white ink doesn’t work well with clear decal paper.
My new plan is to use a gray background with black lettering. Is this an acceptible solution? Also since I will more then likely be making these decals in photo shop, whats a good font size for patchout decals?
I don’t think that it “doesn’t work well”. I think the problem is that you have difficulty seeing it on the clear paper. It is really the decal background paper that is either clear or some other color.
That being said, where were you going to get white ink from?
Depending on what you are patching out, I think I’d be inclined to mask around the proposed patched area and paint out what you don’t want. Then you can just decal over the painted area.
You cannot print light colored colors on decal paper-they always become transparent.
You can use white lettering on black background if you use white-backed decal paper. Or, you can paint a white rectangle on your model and use clear-backed decal paper. If these are patch-out decals only, either of these options will work pretty well.
Your printer, or the software which sends stuff to it, assumes the paper is white, so it “prints” white by printing nothing. Light colors like yellow or light gray also assume a white background, and won’t reproduce faithfully unless the background is indeed white.
The problem with white-backed paper is that you have to trim all the edges exactly, because they will be white. For a rectangular shape like you’re planning, though, you can use a flatbed paper cutter or even a good pair of scissors and get a clean, square cut.
A few months back, I was looking for decal paper, and it was kind of unavailable from most of my normal model railroading sources. I ended up buying a lot more than I wanted from decalpaper.com, and paying shipping. I now have a lifetime supply of the stuff. On the bright side, the per-sheet price was a lot less than the 3-sheet packages I had been buying, and I’m very happy with the paper itself.
Oh yes,I made the mistake of picking up the cab of this loco with some laquer on my finger,ruining the pad printed logo…I scanned the other side of the cab at 300 dpi,sized it correctly and printed it on white decal paper, since white was the only color I couldn’t print,worked like a charm! Damage erased!
Would white lettering on a black background work for you??
My problem mostly is that I am dealing with transparent decal paper and I’ve heard white just doesn’t work on it. Would white text on black backgrounds as one decal work?
Yes, but you need to use white decal paper. Print a black rectangle with the numbers knocked out (transparent) so the white decal film becomes the white numbers.
Mark.
Microsoft Word is capable of reversing colors, that is, black background with white letters. I printed it onto white decal paper, hey presto.
Gidday David, I use Microsoft word and as you’re now doubt aware different fonts vary in size even if you’re using the same font size.
Having chosen the font I use to use, what I do is guestimate the size I require then print it on to plain paper, cut it out and sit it on the actual model. It dosn’t always come out right first time.[sigh]
Cheers, the Bear.
There’s no need to guesstimate. Use the grid in Inkscape and set the X and Y spacing to 3.5mm (a scale foot in HO is 3.5mm.) Then scale the black rectangle and white lettering to the scale size you want. If the rectangle is supposed to be four feet by two feet with letters one foot tall, then the rectangle would be four grid units by two grid units, and the letters one grid unit tall.
You’ll need to size the page layout in the Page tab to the size of the decal sheet you’re using.
Steve S
I always print my decal art on plain paper, cut it out with scissors and give it a trial fit. That way I’m sure everything is sized right before using the expensive decal paper.
Beasley states good practice for decaling. I always do a plain paper text print of the actual decals first, then horse them around on the intended surface. I make some quick notes (like, place immediately below third rivet…or, place to right of car data, etc.) when I trial fit the plain paper ones for use with final application of the real decals.
I use Microsoft Word or AutoCAD to set up my decal items. (AutoCAD for images and specific logos). I set my HP printer preferences to HP photo paper and use best or maximum dpi (dots per inch) for printing. The print will come out very slowly, but that’s what enables the more clear and crisp lettering.
Look on the MR Photo Gallery at my “Farm States” tank car- that very tiny lettering on the bottom white area of the tank was printed out this way. My decal paper of choice is Belpapers, from Decalpapers.com, and I generally buy the clear paper in their 20-sheet packs (lowest price quantity). Follow their instructions for printing and glosscoating- always allow 24hrs for inkjet print to dry before glosscoating (avoid over-handling), then another 24hrs before cutting, soaking and applying. The gloss coat may look dry and seem hard, but it must solidify underneath- otherwise, you can put a mark on it with just a fingernail pressure.
Cedarwoodron
Instead of makng custom decals, paint a black rectangle (or apply a black rectangle decal) then apply white alaphabet/number decals to the patch.