I have two undecorated locomotives and would like to start painting them. I am looking for some advice. Do I paint all the parts and pieces by hand and then paint the main body with an air brush? Are there tips and tricks to painting the locomotive?
Nile,
I do a little bit of painting, & everyone’s painting ‘style’ may be a little bit different.
here is how I go about it;
Paint major assemblies seperate; Cab, walkway, long hood, & short hood.
Paint small parts that may interfere with the decal process seperately, elec boxes, grab railings, horns, etc.
I leave off small parts, pilot details; (cutbars, air hoses, & plows), [different color in my case, -aids in masking]…
I feel if something is going to be masked, I will make sure I do not have any detail parts that will ‘get in the way’ of the masking, & or the decal application efforts later on. It is good to think ahead there.
Also, by seperating some small parts, like elec boxes & horns, you can paint them with better attention & get better coverage on them alone, than on the model. (where paint build up could be an issue).
I normally airbrush my shells. sometimes I use acrylic glasses & shoot in spray can paint & then pour that into the airbrush for better application control. Painting parts separate also avoids getting dead areas where paint does not want to shoot into, like tight corners & right angles.
I will shoot the big parts in one session, & shoot any detail parts & finishing parts (grab rails, & overlooked parts) at a later time.
Here is a picture of one of my weekend sessions (some of the parts). [the cabs on the hoods were added on before staging the picture, but were painted seperately, -like the ones with unmasked black paint].
Again, this is just how ‘I’ do it, there is not a right or wrong way, just what makes you comfortable & happy.
I have several brass engines and passenger cars that I have painted. Even changed the markings on some to fit my rairoad because I like the car.
In all of these cases I used spray paints from Wal-Mart, some semi-gloos and others dull, then decaled them and weathered each.
I like the results. Just simple spray paints from the can.
Robert Sylvester, WTRR
If I may insert my 2 cents worth in here.I have used both an airbrush and rattle cans for painting my models.While the airbrush will give you a nice finish you can also get a great finnish with the rattle can by heating it first in a bowl of hot water.You only need about a half bowl but it needs to be hot.
You set the can in the hot water and keep checking it by toucn.When the can is warm all the way to the top it is time to spray.Use light coat at a distance of at least 12".When the can starts to feel cold put it back in the hot water to reheat before any more spraying.
You will get a much finer smoother finish this way.This little trick works with primer and paint.
Just remember that 6 light coats is better than two heavey ones.
Hmmm,guess it was more like a quarters worth than 2 cents.[:)]
I’m guessing that you don’t have much painting experience and especially not much using an airbrush. Before you start painting anything, I’d suggest that you first learn how to use the tools at your disposal.
My Paasche VL came with an instruction booklet, and there are some good tips on painting included. Especially useful were the practice exercises to develop both a “feel” for the brush and to learn what it can do.
I used a large cardboard box for my first practice sessions, cutting it into manageable pieces and simply following the booklet’s suggested exercises.
Pick a paint: you’d be wise to learn to paint with different types of paint, as they don’t all respond in a like manner, but pick one brand to start with. Read the paint manufacturer’s instructions on application, including recommended thinners and spraying pressures. Once you’ve learned the basics, don’t be afraid to experiment a little.
Use the proper safety equipment: lacquer-based paints demand a two-stage respirator, but, contrary to what you might read on-line, it’s a good idea for use with any paint. If the chemicals used were truly harmless, there’d be no warnings on the bottles against ingestion. [swg] A paper dust mask is not adequate.
Always work in a well-ventilated environment. A spray booth exhausted to the outdoors is preferable, but you can also work outdoors, weather permitting, or open the window. While you won’t smell even lacquer-based paint when wearing the proper respirator, be aware that the smell will linger for some time in the area where you’re painting.
Also, learn to paint with a brush. Start with good quality brushes: they’re not cheap, but well-cared for, they’ll last for many years.
Wayne
All comments are appreciated. I have painted About ten locomotives (partial and full) with a brush. I picked up an air brush a while ago but have not had a chance or place to use it. I will probably need to paint out doors, which isn’t ideal but I don’t have a ventaled work area. Over the past two years I have gotten about six projects behind.