I have a ten by two foot layout that I built from scratch. The framework is actually two seperate 5x2 sections, and then all the track and scenery is built like its only one table. Now, What is the best way to seperate the two tables. Now, keep in mind there are 5 tracks running thru the middle sections and a BUnch of Plaster! Any suggestions would be great!
ACtually my greatest concern is Cutting the track in two and then putting it back together again in working order, How is this done ~tilts head with a stupid look on his face~
I’ve never tried it but you could “just cut the rails” and then when it comes to reassemble, use 5 pieces of short track to replace about 5"(that’s " inches right? i use metric[#oops])
As for the scenery, I’ve heard of jig saws being used. don’t now how clean that would cut.
Disconnect power, then wires (you can redo it). Nip the rails with a Xuron tool or a good set of wire cutters. Then use a large reciprocating saw and go to work. Beware any hidden screws or nails; the saw won’t like that very much.
If you reassemble, use plaster cloth over the gap(s), and rescenic when it is set. Clean up the rail ends with a file, and slip a joiner over one end. Align the rails, and slip the joiner over the gap. Solder for good measure, and hook up power. Or, do as suggested by Dan.
Don’t forget to mark the wires so that when it comes to connecting them up again, you know which one to connect them too[:-,] otherwise, there might be some sparks and sore heads[banghead][banghead][banghead] You could use a number system 1 connects to 1 2 to2 and so forth. Dan[soapbox]
I’d use my Dremel tool to cut the tracks. The Xuron gives one nice clean edge, but it distorts the other one. A drywall saw will do the plaster nicely, although a utility knife will make a neater cut. The utility knife can’t go very deep, though. You might also consider installing plug connectors for the wires, so you can disconnect them easily if you ever have to do this again.
How and where to cut the track depends on what is going on where the tracks cross the area you are seperating. If the tracks are straight going across the cut, one clean cut (I recommend a fine cut off blade on the dremel) will work well. If the tracks curve at that spot, then you will be better off removing a section of track and relaying once the sections are reassembled. When the sections are put back together, make sure they are exactly positioned as they were before. This may require some shimimg and slight adjustments to the support legs. I moved the layout that I still have across town to a new home over 20 years ago and made every possible mistake. Until I tore up the curved (flex) track and relayed the whole thing a few years later, it was derail city no matter what I tried. Good Luck!
welcome to the world of modular railroading…
buy some connectors to recconnect to each other…you can cut and rewire to the connectors as you cut them…saving to mark them, theyd be ready to go.
You will have to accept that your “ends” are going to be in torn up shape and you will just have to re-model them.
Part of the hobby challenge.
Consider snap track is 9 inches long, snap track is available in code 100 and code 83, so if your in code 83 its not difficult, with shortie pieces to re-insert into the track.
Put your mind to the idea that the 2 sections will re-connect in a modular style.
Thats how my new layout is going to be exactly, roughly 2x4 size modulars, but not to any set module standards, but so I can disconnect and move them as needed if the time arises, and also since I will be doing detailed work on the modules, I can set them down up close on a table or work space and work up close detailed on them in comfort and not be crawling under them to work on turnout switch machines, wiring or what have you.
Preobably the easiest way to handle the track, but you don’t have to uses a 9" snap track section. Shorter sections are available and flex track will work too.
… and then reconnect everything to be sure it still works !
I did the exact same thing to my layout. I used a Dremel to cut the track (the ballast held it in place after the cut). Then I used a Japanese pull saw to cut thru the layout…wood, plaster, ballast, everything. Worked like a charm. To realign/reconnect the track I slipped on rail joiners and soldered the joints. It’s been operating for 10 years since without a problem.