Good morning,
Need some information. Is it safe to use the Woodland Scenics electric wire foam cutter on the blue foam insulation board? Someone told me that I shouldn’t use it on the blue foam because of the fumes. Can anyone give me some information?
Jon
it sure do stink, if you have good ventilation I suppose it’s ok. I use a foam knife myself
For general cutting and carving of foam insulation, it’s faster and easier to use a snap blade utility knife. I also use an old bread knife and a hacksaw blade for various cutting needs. Save the hot wire and hot knife tools for precision shaping and final forming of the foam.
Hot cutting of foam releases small amounts of cyanide and other fumes that aren’t very good for you in quantity. Have a fan going while you work and don’t sniff the smoke…
I had to cut a pink extruded foam board in half, and the utility knife did a HORRIBLE job. A steak knife from the kitchen did a far superior job, it doesn’t seem to drag and cru***he foam as much, and makes for a cleaner cut.
For doing ANYTHING that makes fumes of any sort, even non-toxic, ALWAYS have plenty of ventilation. Even if the fumes are non-toxic, breathing in non-toxic fumes means you aren’t breathing in oxygen.
–Randy
A hacksaw blade works great, though it is messy. It can cut great contours and make realistic curves, etc. I Always have my shop vac going right under where I am cutting to suck up as much of the messy stuff as possible as I go. It becomes electro-statically charged and sticks to everything, but better than killin your brain on the fumes from the wire cutters.
Ron
A hacksaw blade does real well. And there’s a handy handle for the blade available at most hardware stores I think. See lower part of photo:
Jon,
Go with a long skinny steak knife. Everyone is correct. You do have to be VERY careful of the fumes when using anything that is hot on foam. Are you cutting up the foam for scenery or for your table?
Tom
Just like with any other cut, if you want it to be effortless, smooth and clean, you’ve got to use a SHARP blade. I can get 3-5 good long cuts out of a brand new blade. I then switch blades, relegating the used blade to the carving blade pile.
I picked up a good old $5 electric knife at goodwill. Nice clean cuts and even allows for some shaping. Just don’t use the one in your kitchen. Not a good result.
I use either an old serrated bread knife for quick easy cuts, or a fine toothed backsaw such as one uses with a miter box, for long straight cuts such as 2 to 8 feet off a slab. Use a piece of straight wood as a guide and keep the saw square with the work.
Thanks everyone for your help. I am going to try your different suggestions as I cut and shape my scenery. Isn’t it great to have this forum. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience with me.
Jon
If you have a bandsaw like I do, I cut out the big pieces with that first. When I get it down to the smaller shapes I use a 4" electric grinder for the large shaping, then I use my Dremel tools for the really small stuff. I set up a fan blowing away from me for ventalation, wear a good dust mask, safety glasses & don’t work in a closed in area.
Even if you have to take the stuff outdoors is better than working inside. I glue all mine together w/Elmers glue. It works the best. Let it dry for at least 36 to 48 hrs.
If you have to change something later, it’s fairly easy to seperate.
Don’t use glue guns or liquid nails. It will melt between the layers.
Larry