Having this problem when i use the rail nippers to cut the flex track,the problem is when i cut the track the ties pop off the rail.What is the best way to cut to keep this from happening,i have cut two ties out and have left ties in,but still goes on.
You want the ties to come off. I always remove one or two ties from the ends anyway, so that I can slide the rail joiners on. Then I remove the “rail spikes” from the tops of the ties and slide them back under the rails after the track is glued down.
Me, too.
Yes i do that but when i cut the track about four ties more will pop out after the ones i have allready took off.
Are you holding the track up when cutting or do you have it stationary against the base? Is the track at least semi held in place as to it’s correct curvature to how you want it? Which cutters are you using and are they new or have they been used quite a bit? Do you cut more than track with the cutters?
Personally I use a set of these and have my track pretty much set in place before cutting.
I hold the track up and use the cutters for the track only and i just bought it.
You should be able to slide the ties back on if they just flew off, but I never have them fly off when I cut the track. I am using Atlas Code 100 and it has every second tie joined, so they shouldn’t fly off like that.
I cut the piece of plastic so I can pull off two ties on the end so, as has been mentioned, you can slide the joiners on.
Me, I use my Dremel tool for cutting rail (with a reinforced cutting disk, not the fragile ceramic disks that come with the tool) and I always have the track flat on a solid surface.
I would think holding the track on a solid surface and coming at the rail from above with a rail nipper should minimize the sort of sideways forces that I suspect are causing your problem – actually Atlas track should be the least prone to do this. If you held the track with the flat of your left hand and worked the nipper with the right hand, that should prevent sideways forces pretty well.
I wonder if holding the rail in place with one of the handy tools offered by Ribbon Rail – either the tool intended to hold track to gauge while you nail the center of the tie, or the tool that holds the track in gauge when you solder feeder wires – would help keep the rail from working loose in the way you describe. These are thick plastic tools with grooves that slip on top of the railhead to hold it steady (and straight).
Dave Nelson
Also make sure you are cutting with the blade contacting the top and bottom. Usually the ties do not come off and have to be cut.
Dave,that is what is going on,i notice the rail going sideways when i was cutting it,now i have a Dremel but the cutting disk will not cut flush because it wont let me, so sounds like i need one of the reinforced ones now where do i get one.Thanks.
Cut “upside down” with the railhead towards the hinge of the nippers and the wider base toward the open end of the jaws. This will minimize twisting, which is why your ties are popping off. Or cut top to bottom rather than side to side.
–Randy
You must be applying side force during the cut. I use nippers all the time and never damage or displace a tie. I used to use a Dremmel, but the nippers are easier and faster.
If you mean the tool won’t let you get to a clean 90 angle yeah that is a problem and my solution is to hold the track on my layout benchwork (layout is incomplete) with the ends of the track hanging over the edge just slightly - this lets me get at the ends of the rails with a clean 90 angle
if you mean the cutting discs won’t let stand up to cutting throught the rail – yes, that is a problem with the very thin discs and I strongly suggest reinforced cutting discs. I was able to get some at a normal Ace Hardware store that sells Dremel – the part number is 426A: 12 reinforced cut off wheels. The cost is about $20 but you get so much more use out of those wheels than the very breakable thin wheels. You can also use the sides of the wheels to “true up” the ends of the rails
Dave Nelson