I’ll be starting my new adventure into another realm of model railroading this weekend where I will be repainting some of my engines. Never attempting this before I am somewhat leary of messing up my decals, so I ask: is there a “BEST” way to cut out my decals? I am using Mircoscale decals for my engines. What kind of blade should I use or should I use scissors? What kind of mat or board should I cut them on? Obviously I won’t be cutting them on the kitchen table top, but is there something that you guys recommend cutting on?
I just use a decent pair of scissors to cut the decals. I do use Micro-Sol to prep the surface. Some people also use Micro-Set, particularly on uneven surfaces like grills or riveted areas. Afterwards, I spray with either satin or flat clear finish.
I use a good pair of scissors for the larger decals and a very sharp exacto blade on glass for the small ones. If the decal is really big, cut it and apply it in cut sections. One large or long decal is sure to tear and break apart before you get it positioned on the model. The ones gauranteed to break are long skinny pin stripe width decals. If you cut them and apply them in shorter sections the chances of messing up the decals are smaller.
One other note. Before applying the decal, soak it in water until it slips easily from the paper backing.
On the model you’re decalling, paint on some water and 50% alcohol mixed 50/50 before applying the decal. It will wet the back side of the decal so that you won’t get a “silver” or silvery film after the decal dries. Also, once the decal is almost dry, apply some sol-v-set or other decal softening agent to the decal. This will soften the decal so that it will fit snuggly into the nooks and crannies of the model once it completely dries.
One other note, A misting of Testor’s dul-cote will need to be applyed to the model after the decals are dry. It will hide the decal seams and soften the glossy glare of the decal.
Because it’s a very smooth hard surface and the hobby knife won’t cut into it. the glass is so hard that the hobby knife glides across it too, so you’re actually cutting thru the decal and decal paper only and not into a surface like wood or panaling making for a lot smoother cut. It holds the decal straight and even so it won’t bend the decal with the pressure from the knife. Glass is also great for cutting masking tape for masking a model before painting it…chuck
As Chad stated, a new Xacto blade and cutting on a glass surface works very well for Microscale Decals. The glass surface gives you a nice hard surface to cut the decal on, which in turn gives you a nice smooth edge to the cut versus a frayed edge if you were to slice the decal on a softer surface. Also, when cutting the decal with the knife, I recommend using a nice metal straight edge which will give you an even cut.
I do use very sharp, teflon coated scissors for cutting larger MS decals from the sheet. Also, sharp scissors are handy when using decals by other makers such as Champ, whose decals are designed to do one car/lokey per set.
Also, I have found that the Champ Decal Set is superior to the Microscale Set. The Champ solution is stronger and works well for getting those decals to “snuggle” down over ribs and rivets.
Starting out decaling, I recommed a simple project such as a smooth sided boxcar. That way you can work on your technique.
Remember the three “Ps” whilst decaling: Practice, Patience, and Perseverance.[C):-)]
As a custom painter for the past 15 years, here’s my free advice:
Don’t use alcohol as a wetting agent, it may not affect Microscale decals but it can affect others and it can certainly affect acrylic paints and there’s no need as there are several commercial wetting/setting solutions available.
Terminology:
Microscale:
MicroSet, a wetting/pre-softening solution. This stuff slightly softens the decal to make it easier to lay it over irregular sufaces and also helps to elliminate air bubbles that can get trapped under the decal.
MicroSol, this solution fully softens the decal so it can conform to the irregular sufaces and creates a close bond with the painted surface. Several applications may be required. Do NOT touch the decal once Microsol has been applied. Wait until it’s dry before reapplying. Check for air bubbles/pockets and pop them with a fresh blade, then apply some more MicroSol. I do around 10 to 15 applications.
Champ: Champ’s Decal Set is equivalent to MicroSol not MicroSet.
Walthers: Solvaset (equivalent to MicroSol and Champ’s Decal Set) is the strongest of the three. Works good with thicker decals.
Cutting Decals:
Microscale decals have a clear border around the printed areas. This border is tapered to better blend into the surface of the paint. These are what I call “spot” printed in that there is no decal film in between the various parts of a sheet. They can easily be cut out with a sharp pair of scissors without worrying about accuracy too much. My only exception here are stripes, I use a steel rule and a new blade. Microscale’s exception are numbers, there is no film between rows of numbers, but within each row they are connected by decal film and should be cut close to the number(s).
All other manufacturers’ coat the whole sheet with decal film or start with larger coated sheets. These decals need to be cut as close as possib
Microscale’s decal sheets can have the film surrounding only the larger figures such as heralds and large side lettering and numbers. Before cutting, examine the sheet under a good light. You don’t have to trim too closely on some of these larger items. The film actually tapers to a fine edge.
The cutting on glass or plastic will give a cleaner cut, but I like to use surgical scissors.
All of the above is good advice. I have one addendum that works very well for me in cutting most materials including decals. I use single edge razor blades (the kind w/ a metal edging on the upper, non-cutting, edge). Much cheaper than brand X, sharper to begin with and when dull can be resharpened by simply breaking off the end of the cutting edge.
For cutting out decals I always use either an X-acto knife or the scissors on my small swiss army knife. If you’re going to cut them out with the X-Acto knife I suggest doing it on either a workbench or a cheap clipboard from some office supply store.
As a custom painter for the past 15 years, here’s my free advice:
Don’t use alcohol as a wetting agent, it may not affect Microscale decals but it can affect others and it can certainly affect acrylic paints and there’s no need as there are several commercial wetting/setting solutions available.
Terminology:
Microscale:
MicroSet, a wetting/pre-softening solution. This stuff slightly softens the decal to make it easier to lay it over irregular sufaces and also helps to elliminate air bubbles that can get trapped under the decal.
MicroSol, this solution fully softens the decal so it can conform to the irregular sufaces and creates a close bond with the painted surface. Several applications may be required. Do NOT touch the decal once Microsol has been applied. Wait until it’s dry before reapplying. Check for air bubbles/pockets and pop them with a fresh blade, then apply some more MicroSol. I do around 10 to 15 applications.
Champ: Champ’s Decal Set is equivalent to MicroSol not MicroSet.
Walthers: Solvaset (equivalent to MicroSol and Champ’s Decal Set) is the strongest of the three. Works good with thicker decals.
Cutting Decals:
Microscale decals have a clear border around the printed areas. This border is tapered to better blend into the surface of the paint. These are what I call “spot” printed in that there is no decal film in between the various parts of a sheet. They can easily be cut out with a sharp pair of scissors without worrying about accuracy too much. My only exception here are stripes, I use a steel rule and a new blade. Microscale’s exception are numbers, there is no film between rows of numbers, but within each row they are connected by decal film and should be cut close to the number(s).
All other manufacturers’ coat the whole sheet with decal film or start with larger coated sheets. These decals need