For cutting large pieces for benchwork (not small chunks for hills and so forth), I used a putty knife and sharpened the long edge plus one side. Pulling the pointed edge throught he foam a few times, along a straight edge, allowed me to make clean snaps to make sections to fit in my benchwork sections. Since a full 2x8 piece didn;t fit very well in my car, I also took the putty knife and tape measure along when I bought foam, and cut it in the parking lot into convenient 2x4 sections that easily slipped in the car.
Carving small bits out, I use a serrated steak knife (for a while we had a set of 7 in the kitchen…shhhhhhh!. But we now have a nice set of knives including a full set of 8 steak knives, so the 7 matching the one in my benchwork drawer are now pretty much surplus and never get out of the drawer anyway. I should maybe appropriate another so there is an even number left. We never have that many guests anyway).
Like Penn, I also use a drywall saw to cut foam. I tried a hot wire from a craft store and returned it. Any extra pieces can get used for making hills,etc. For large pieces, I cut with a handsaw. Given that the small foam pieces get everywhere, I use a dry vac when all done.
Securing foam is easy w/ liquid nails and now I read that hot glue also works.
LOL no not blood. It’s actually spray foam insulation. It was a disaster when dry, I cut out as much as I could and applied spackling paste over it all. That’s just the spray foam showing thru. Looks 100% better now.
So if you have 2" thick foam, how deep do you have to score it, to get it to break cleanly. Yes I did a search and that’s why I’m bringing back this thread
I saw a video with a blade 2 or 3" long, is that what you mean by utility knife? The only knives I saw in Home Depot were either snap off blades, and I’m not sure they have rigidity, box cutters or something long enough to gut a deer.