I have always used plastic rail joiners to provide gaps in the track.
But I decided to buy a diamond wheel disc for my Dremel to cut gaps in the rails.
I was experimenting tonight with some scrap flex track.
How do you cut the rail without cutting the plastic beneath it?
Rich
I do it AFTER I have ballasted the track. Once the grains are glued and set, the tracks aren’t going anywhere. Now is the time to carefully make your ‘incision’. Wear goggles!!!
Sounds as if you bought the plastic-cutting combination disc rather than the one meant just for rail. [:P]
I use a regular cut-off disc and am not concerned if the plastic is cut or not…well, other than for the stink it makes. [(-D] One method to avoid cutting the plastic is to stop pressing down after the rail has been severed. [swg] On most flextrack with which I’m familiar, the tie strip on at least one side is not continuous anyway, so no need to worry if you accidentally cut it.
I like to use Plastruct .020" ABS sheet to prevent the gap from re-closing, as it’s the same thickness as the cut-off disc and, if your grip on the Dremel was steady, the same thickness as the gap in the rails. I simply cut a small square of material, then cement it into the gap using ca. The next day, after the joint has fully-hardened, I use an X-Acto knife and a small file to shape the plastic to the same profile as the rail. The dark grey plastic is almost invisible once you paint its sides to match the colour of your rails.
The one shown above was cut at the point where a soldered-on railjoiner connects the rails of two turnouts.
Wayne
I just recently started using plastic joiners to save time and finger nicks. For many years I’ve been using fiber cut off wheels which are thinner than the super fragile regular ones. The fiber ones only break at the collet when grossly over stressed. After the cut I’ll CA glue in a small sliver of styrene…usually into a .022" gap. I cut right through to the sub roadbed. But…I only do this after the ballasting, so the gap doesn’t misalign. I run DC and have extensive blocks, so gaps like this are all over the layout.
Mark H
is there any reason the cut should be perpendicular to the rail?
Thanks guys.
I gather that many of you cut through both the rail and the plastic base of the flex track.
I should add that I will be using the Dremel on ballasted flex track, so I see your point that it will be stable and remain in place once cut.
Here is a link to the diamond wheel that I am using on my Dremel.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-7-8-in-Diamond-Wheel-545/100346850
Rich
Rich,
I use the same one, but in the ‘‘flex-shaft’’ attachment, found it to have a lot better control and hardly touch the ties at all. That’s my go to tool for some pesky Atlas turnouts.[:P]
Frank
Thanks, Frank.
This could get pretty expensive. Maybe I should stick with insulated plastic rail joiners. [sigh]
Rich
Rich, practice on a discarded length of track to get the feel for it. I NEVER use the flexible extension. I don’t really care if the cut is vertical or not, just that it is all the way through…natch…and that it is as thin as I can make it hand-held. I use the cheapo smaller cut-off disk that comes with my cheapo Dremel clone from Canadian Tire. I just don’t force the cut, but gently let the disk do its own job. The trick is to start the cut at an angle you can sustain for the depth of the cut, and then gently back out so as not to enlarge it even more.
Did anyone notice in the specs for this, it said ‘not recommended for metal’?
FIRST, get a small block of wood to apply pressure to the rails to the left of the cut. (Assuming you are right handed). This will stabilize the tracks and precent a movement of the rails that may buck causing tyour cutting wheel to snap.
SECOND, wear goggles.
THIRD, tuck your tail into your belt. No point in cutting off your tail. That would look bad.
It is not necessary for the cut to be perfectly vertical, it can be at what ever angle is most comfortable for you to manuver the motor tool.
Most people seem to recomment filling the gap with plastic or something. An air gap works just as well, although the rails may slide back and forth causing the gap to close. This has happend to about two of the hundreds of gaps that I have cut. A dab of glue to hold the rail in place is much faster than trying to fill the gap with plastic. If you must fill it, an air-dry modeling clay would seem to work well enough. Why ditz about with materials that require work, eh?
ROAR
Interesting point.
I did notice that comment about the wheel, but others who use it recommended it and I have not had a problem cuttin through the rail. Maybe the nickel silver is softer than other metals.
Rich
I use the same discs and, with a little care, the discs will last a long time. I probably wear-out more of them than I break, and it’s the accessory that’s most used (almost the only one) in my Dremel.
Wayne
Very carefully. [8D] I’ve successfully done this quite a few times with the diamond wheel. It just takes a bit of practice.
Not at all. When cutting a gap into previously installed track I don’t worry about it being perpendicular, and once everything is painted and ballasted you’ll never notice either.
Rich,
I just use a couple of apps. with ZAP-A-GAP, Medium CA+, don’t fill in with plastic. Once cured, can be filed and painted, with staggered joints, a little larger gap, than insulated joiners. The good part is, Metal wheels will NOT, bridge the gap, creating a short.
Have Fun! [:)]
Frank
I’ve always used the carborundum wheels for cutting metal, including rail joints, in my Dremel. I think you can buy a container of them for the cost of one diamond wheel. And, just like in the trades, using a gas powered cut-off saw with a 12" or 14" blade, you only use a carborundum blade, made for metal, to cut metal, and never a diamond blade. Sometimes, while cutting reinforced concrete, which a diamond blade is perfect for, cutting a bar or two, or wire mesh, can’t be avoided, but diamond is not the blade of choice when your cutting just metal. That little diamond blade is made for cutting ceramic tile, and such, as it’s instructions point out.
Just my experience.
Mike.
I was hoping to see some comment on gap location relative to each other. I used to cut them directly across from each other until I bought a DCC auto-reverser. The documents say to stagger the gaps so one wheel crosses before the other does. About 1/2" stagger in HO.
A 1/2" stagger seems way too much and can lead to AR confusion.
Here is the recommended gapping for the PSX-AR.
“When setting up gaps for reverse sections, we recommended that the gaps be staggered about 1/8 “. Perfectly aligned gaps may reduce the current needed for PSX-AR to reverse properly”.
Rich
Yes, I follow the Digital Specialties’ instructions for gaps. The idea is that you must only account for the exceedingly tiny footprints of the two closest metal tires…we’re talking less than a half mm. So, in order to keep the PSX-AR free of interpretation conflicts, you only need to stagger the gaps by about 1mm practically…but who would take the time to actually measure it, mark it, and then attempt to use a cut-off disk to good effect with that miniscule difference? They were wise to simply advise the user to stagger about 1/8" which the heavy preponderance of their doting customer base, the American male, is likely to understand and to be able to visualize easily…and effect.
-Crandell