I’ve got some exotic wood in a piece that’s 1/4" x 3" x 24" and I want to cut approximately 1/4" wide pieces from it. The best thing I can think of is to use a hobby type table saw (circular) Any advice???
underworld[:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]
That’s what I would use, or a band saw with a very thin blade.
The only advice I can give is to keep your fingers firmly on the end of your hands where they belong. Safety first.
Thanks Jack…my fingers and hands are #1 concern! I saw a really thin circular blade at the wood supply place…I’ll probably go and pick that up tomorrow.
underworld[:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]
I’m currently using my bandsaw to cut window frames, trim and other bits and pieces for the 7/8n2 scale coach and combine I’m building. I’m cutting quarter and eighth inch slices. Also, I found that wood crates used to hold tangerines contain thin wood after you remove all the staples and fill the holes with wood fill (you can also make your own hole filler by using fine sawdust and wood glue and mashing it together to putty consistency. You have to use it fast as it dries quick.
Yes mate well i would ignore all this and consider that it is only 6mm thick, first. Is it a hard wood or is it s softwood, and i take it you meant exotic not erotic?
What about slicimg it with guilotene type thing or if it is all that rare it may well too valuable to just hack away at; consider having a professional do it for you, they are usually pretty cheap, when working in wood.
Rgds ian
David I had heard that fruit crate wood is good stock, I might try some of that for practice. Do you have a full size band saw or a smaller one? What sort of blade do you use to make the fine cuts?
Ian Yes…I did mean exotic! I haven’t seen any erotic wood at the wood supply!!! [:P] It’s called Purple Heart…also known as Violet Wood. It is a hard wood, about twice as hard as Mohogany. It isn’t crazy rare…kind of along the lines of Coco Bolo and other tropical woods. I did consider looking for someone to cut it for me…just so I don’t screw it up! I would like to have the ability though.
underworld[:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]
Saw this accesory on Dremel website
I think this with some sort of jig to hold the rotary tool might do the trick.
underworld[:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]
I have never heard of that wood, which doesn’t mean much; I would seek professional advice, if its free.
Rgds ian
I hadn’t heard of it till last week
here are a few sample images that I found, thew acyual wood is quite a bit more purple than in the photos.
undeworld[:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]
Is it really that colour naturally or has it been stained, ive never seen anything like it.
Rgds Ian
I have the Delta shopmaster; 1 speed. The metal cutting blade (52"??) works better than the wood cutting thinner blade, which tends to wander.
I’ve also had good success slicing up those paint mixing sticks (about 18" long) that are given away at Lowe’s and HD.
If you take a cedar tree and plant it in some hard packed soil so that it grows slower than normal in an iron rich soil, the “heart” of the tree will turn purple. Purple heart cedar was very common when I was a kid, but now days finding a piece that is over 4 inches is getting to be rare. Black heart walnut is also a nicely grained wood. As a mater of fact, any of the slow growth woods make excelent furniture qualithy wood.
Ian It is purple naturally, and some has really interesting grain pattern
David I just looked at the Shopmaster the other day. A local store has them on clearance for $69…so I think I will be getting one.
ttrigg Interesting that you can manipulate the color of the wood through the soil!
underworld[:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]
Advise getting a couple metal blades too. Don’t use them for hard metal; I did and the teeth dulled. Stick to copper and brass; I think aluminum is safe too.
I used to use metal cutting blades on my reciprocating saw for cutting wood. My friends thought that I was strange but the cuts were really smooth and the blades lasted a lot longer! I’ll have to see who carries the metal blades around here. The store that has the saw on sale only has wood blades for it.
underworld[:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]
This may be the way to go, thin blade narrow smooth cut, sound like a good idea to me.
Rgds Ian
If you’re going to use a bandsaw to resaw lumber, you want to make sure of a couple of things that will help you be more successful.
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You want to use a blade that is a minimum of 1/2" wide from front to back.
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Place a fence close to the blade for your wood to rest against. Freehanding a straight cut is a recipe for failure.
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Drop the upper blade guard down to within an 1/8" of the top of the wood you will be cutting. This will minimize the amount of drift you experience from the blade
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Lastly, be safe when feeding the wood. Use a sacrificial piece to finish your feed. A bandsaw, though relatively safe when compared with a table saw, is still a saw.
Mark
I use the metal cutting blade (about 1/2 inch thick or so) to cut wood. It’s slower but keeps a straight line better than the thin wood cutting blade that comes with the bandsaw.
I have never seen a 1/2" wide or thich saw blade, even in a saw mill, we must be talking at cross purposes. Surely this would make a 1/2" cut and that would be disasterous. What exactlyy do you mean?
Rgds Ian
Ian I think he means the measurement of the blade from front to back. Most of the blades I see are 1/8 or 1/4 inch. The 1/2 inch I think would be more stable for a straight cut.
underworld[:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]