I plan on converting my grandson’s Thomas the Tank to DCC using a Digitrax DZ123 decoder. Does anyone know if it automatically forfeits the DC capability (will I have to buy a second Thomas so he can still use his on a conventional track power system). Is there any small decoder that will allow DC & DCC ops? Thanks!
The big question that must be answered here is, does the DZ123 decoder support DC operation? If it doesn’t, then you’ll have to choose a different decoder, such as the TCS T-1 or a different Digitrax version. Why are you wanting to put a Z-scale decoder into it? What scale is the Thomas?
Check the Digitrax web site and read the specifications for the DZ123 decoder to learn whether or not it will run in DC mode, or read the documetation that came with it.
Addendum: A quick perusal of the Digitrax Web site by performing a Google search for DZ123 does not mention DC operation for this decoder, so you may need to select one that does support dual-mode operation.
Since we’re on the subject, I’m giving some thought to a partial, phased conversion of my layout from DC to DCC. I wired it using the conventional two cab, DPDT switch system. Most of my roster is brass, some of it dating from the early sixties, although I do have some BLI and Spectrum steamers that could run on DCC. Is it possible to simply replace one of my existing transformers with a DCC setup and toggle individual blocks between DC and DCC control? I know DC engines can be run on DCC, but I’m a little leery of that, because I’ve heard horror stories about motor burnout.
Bill,
The DZ123 supports full ‘analog conversion’ operation(DC). This is a ‘default’ option of the decoder - It will sense if there is DC or DCC on the rails and auto switch to the correct mode.
Rob,
In theory, you can replace one the of the cabs with your DCC command station, and then move all of the toggles to that cab. I did this in the mid 90’s and it worked OK. There are several issues doing this however:
o - Running some blocks on DC and others on DCC. You WILL by accident cross one of the gaps and ‘unpredicable’ results WILL happen. A LHS did this on their ‘test’ track - One blown decoder and many ‘resets’ needed to be done to several decoders to recover. Be forwarned!
o - How ‘strong’ is your DC block wiring? Mine was all #18 wire, with good solder joints at the track end, and crimp lugs at the toggle end. Remember you are putting the full power of your command station to the rails at all times. Most model railroads that I have seen have some pretty poor wiring(used bell wire, twisted connections, etc…).
o - Engines - Most brass steamers have very poor electrical pickup…
o - Power Districts - This is not mentioned enought. If a single engine shorts out(like going through a turnout set wrong), the entire railroad shuts down!
All of the above is not meant to scare you. But be informed that you may need to ‘tweak’ some things, and physically change others - there is a ‘learning’ curve here.
Jim
Bill, to expand on Jim’s answer a little, ALL current production Digitrax decoders support analog (DC) operation, and they are shipped with that feature turned ON.
See Section 6.2 beginning on page 32 of the Digitrax Decoder Manual for more info. There is a chart showing the normal behavior when analog conversion is turned on, as well as instructions for modifying that behavior, or even turning analog conversion off should you desire to do so: http://www.digitrax.com/v1/ftp/Decoder%20Manual.pdf
HTH,
Steve
Thanks to all! Looks like I won’t have to buy another Thomas just for the DCC ops. Yes, I checked the Digitrax site but, not being seriously into DCC before, just noticed the LACK of mention of DC compatability, rather than the SPEC saying it would know which mode the track de jour is using. As far as the “Z” reference, DT says the decoder is fine for Z, N as well as HO. I am most interested due to its’ size as Thomas doesn’t leave a lot of room to work (it’s HO BTW). Thanks again!!
Love this forum! -Bill
Jim,
Thanks - that’s useful information. I used solid #20 wire for everything but the track connections, crimp lugs at the toggles, and spliced connections to the rail joiners, which are the commercially available variety with stranded wire attached directly to the joiners. I’ve had very good luck with it with DC, although soldering the spliced connections is a “to-do” - I assume it’s essential. I used toggles that are good for 20 amps of AC current, so I think I could run even the much-maligned MTH K-4 on it. I suspect my biggest problem will be DCC-unfriendly switches, since they’re sometimes a problem for my brass fleet even with DC (and I’m planning on adding pickup shoes as I refinish each engine, anyway).
Given these planned changes, are there any other physical adaptations I would need to make to run DCC - additional wiring in particular (this is something of a bugbear, since I have 23 independently-wired blocks)?
But I’m with you on the short problem - I’ve had operators unfamiliar with it cause shorts even with DC. I’ve given some thought to just getting one of the cheapy Bachmann starter sets to see whether I like it.