Dc Wiring ?

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

If wiring Dc in blocks do you use a seperate controller for each block ?
Running Thomas the train in HO for grandaughter .
This Layout is only being used for the holiday season do to space.
I would like to run two trains for her on 1 mainline .
Dcc not an option unless I have someone put in decoders.
Rich

2

Let’s see if I Remember -

The ‘Controllers’ were DPDT for Reversing Block’s, and the Block switches were SPDT.
Switch activation controls were all momentary-contact push 'n slide button’s.
Try the ATLAS WEB SITE: http://www.atlasrr.com/

Any local hobby shop that sell train’s should know that.

TO RUN 2 TRAIN’S simultaneously on the same track need’s at least 2 blocks and 2 power packs. A DCC system precludes block wiring, but still requires 2 power pack’s.

Bachmann’s DCC system includes engine’s with decoder’s built in. (wiring will go faster). Considering the time element, maybe Bacmann is the better way to go.

3

You need at least four blocks to make it practical, You need one controler for each train. I put a DPDT for each block. Center contacts go to the block. One controler to each end set of contacts. You then switch block control for each controler just before the train enters that block. You need four blocks so that one train can leave the block before the other gets to it. You switch block controlers back and forth as the trains follow each around. It works great but keeps you on your toes. If this is not too clear I would be glad to try to clarify.

4

I’m sorry, Don, but I believe you’re mistaken.

DCC systems need use only one power source. You’d also use only one control device. You can control more than one locomotive with the same contol device. To send instructions to a particular locomotive, you first need to select its address. The locomotive will continue along its merry way following the last instructions it was given until new ones are issued — kind of like the “set it and forget it” tag line from that infomercial.

Larger layouts, or ones where several locomotives (eg: more than 4, depending on the DCC system, the locomotives, etc.) are being run at the same time may require more power than what a single power source can offer. If that is the case, you would install power boosters; but you’d still only need one control device. Although it would be better to have more if your friends are helping run trains.

5

Go DCC…unless you have fun flipping switches every second.

6

I BEIEVE the key word here was ''SIMULTANEOUS" (maybe I need to reread), as such requiring 2 controller’s, which (I think) are also 1.5 amp power supplier’s.

Not owning one, I defer to those who own one - with 2 controller’s and one power supply.

7

With DCC, all tracks are powered at all times by the same power supply; unlike with DC where only the selected block is powered by the selected power supply/controler.

In DC, the power supply is the control device. The speed and direction of the locomotive is determined by the output of the power supply, or cab. That means that all locomotives on the same block of track will move the same way (speed and direction). Which is why your layout would be divided into several blocks; with each block powered by one of the cabs. Each block is wired to an electrical switch which is used to determine if the block gets power from Cab A, Cab B, or is unpowered.

In DCC, the power supply is constant. It is the decoder inside each locomotive and the control device which determines a locomotive’s speed and direction. Blocks are not required (but are recommended for trouble-shooting electrical problems). Each control device can control more than one locomotive. A locomotive will continue operating according to the last instructions it was given until it is given new instructions.

Now, of course, if you’re operating the trains alone, you only need one control device. However, if you and a friend both want to control trains at the same tim

8

You didn’t say whether you wanted to run the two trains from separate power packs or not. It is possible to run both trains from a single power pack and no control blocks. The only problem with that is unless the trains run at exactly the same speed one will catch up with the other eventually. One solution would be to set up two blocks and wire them with an Atlas Connector. When the trains are in different blocks, turn off the power to the block that the faster train is in until the slower train gets enough separation, then start the faster train again.

Now if you want to run them from separate power packs, you need to set up control blocks. An Atlas Selector is what you need. That allows you to direct each block to one of two power packs. For continuous two train running, it will require constant flipping of the Selector switches to keep the trains assigned to the correct power pack.

You only need a Controller if you have reversing sections. Your post didn’t say whether you would be using them or not. The Controller allows you to control the polarity to the reversing section(s) independent from the mainline. For a single train, while the train is in the reversing block, you flip the polarity for the main. The problem with that is if a second train is running on the main, it will change directions. That’s not good. The better way would be to stop the train in the reversing block, then flip the direction on both its power pack and the reversing section at the same time, then restart the train. Again, this is going to require constant flipping of switches.

9

send me your e-mail address and i’ll send you a bunch of drawings I did in microsoft word that can show you how to wire a layout in what is called “cab control” which will enable you to run two trains simultaniously from two separate power packs…I also have a cab control drawing using “common rail” wiring which is a bit simpler way to wire a small two train layout which will give you the same results…chuck

10

Key points from the original post:

  1. Thomas the Tank
  2. Christmas layout only, due to space issues
  3. Two trains desired.

Key considerations:

  1. solution needs to be inexpensive
  2. solution needs to be quick and easy

Three options:

  1. Put two trains on the track, dial up the juice, and see what happens. Odds are a zillion to one that one locomotive will be faster than the other, will catch up to the other, and run it off the track unless corrective measures are taken, leading to options 2 and 3. Total cost: $0.

  2. Add a passing siding, two turnouts, Atlas #4’s, $30, two sections of flex track, $8, another $10 worth of wires and solder and such, including one double pole, double throw, center off switch from Radio Shack. Pull the slow train off the mainline when the fast train catches up to it. This option will require that you stop both trains before turning power to the passing siding on or off, or else subject either or both trains to excessive, derailment producing G forces when you flip the DPDT switch. Adding a second power pack will prevent this from happening, and will add $20 to $35 to the solution. Total cost, $48 to $78. (You don’t need a dpdt switch with a second power pack, so I deducted $5)

  3. Divide the layout into two electrical sections, by using insulating plastic joiners between track sections. Plastic joiners cost about $4. You’ll need another X feet of two conductor wire to power whichever section of track is no longer powerewd after adding the insulated joiners. If you don’t have any, and the wife will not approve of cutting the cord off a lamp or appliance, add another $5 for some wire. To altewr the speed of a train in either electrical section, you either need an on’off switch, a single pole single throw will work, so will a DPDT, call it $4. Again, you will have to stop both trains when throwing the switch, opr spend a lot of time re-railing trains. Adding a second power pack to r