I have read about using atomotive lights for short protection. I have a small to medium sized layout and was wondering if one of these lightbulbs could be linked between the frog and the tortiose for short protection, instead of opening up the tortiose and widening the gap?
I am looking for the quick fix of course.
The automotive light has nothing to do with a Tortoise switch machine. The light bulb is wired between the power booster and track, and it doesn’t have to be an automotive bulb, either. I use 12 Volt, 30 or 40 Watt, Halogen light bulbs from the lighting section at Wal-mart.
Maybe I didn’t understand the use of the bulb. If there is a short the bulb will draw the extra voltage so the DCC system does not register the short. My thinking was that I have a NCE procab and run tortoise switch machines off a seperate power source. So when, not if, the machine causes a short would the bulb do the same for turnouts as it does for any other short. KInd of banking on the short but being ready for it.
Hmmm, I’ve been using Tortoise contacts to power my frogs for years, and haven’t yet seen them cause a short. Just when is this supposed to happen on my layout?
Is that like one of those computer viruses that has a specific trigger date when it becomes active? So when I hit that trigger date my Tortoises will start shorting my frogs?
What about if I change the date I’m modeling? Can I continue to miss it by doing that? [:D][:D][:D]
Sorry, couldn’t help myself,
Steve
The internal contacts are so close that on some machines the contacts will triger before the rail has moved enough.
I guess I may have to experiment and let you know.
Steve, funny guy.
Ah, okay, the “Tortoise makes before the points break” issue!
I’ve heard of it, but I’ve never encountered it, probably because I “tune” my turnout installations. It’s not a quick fix, but in my opinion it’s the right fix.
First, I make sure that the points/throwbar are absolutely free-moving before I install the spring wire from the tortoise. That means removing the spring on those turnouts that have them (Peco).
Then I adjust that spring wire using the Tortoise’s fulcrum so that the points start to move just a fraction of a second after the Tortoise starts moving. That fraction of a second is important because you want the points to have some tension against the stock rails.
That’s really all there is to it. No shorts, and the underside of my layout doesn’t look like a Christmas tree.
Sorry. Like I said, I just couldn’t help myself.
Steve
Thanks steve. This explains why I have 2 out six tortoise causing problems. I will attempt the fine tunning you suggest.
I’d really suggest tuning them. What you’re after is for the points to start moving smoothly just a fraction of a second after the Tortoise itself starts moving.
If the points stay stuck until the Tortoise is half-way through it’s travel and then snap over, you’re just about guaranteed to have problems.
Steve
I believe Joe Fugate uses the 1157 taillight bulb for short detection on his layout.
Tom
John…
If you’re using Walthers/Shinohara turnouts you might want to get rid of the little bronze tab that helps get current to the switch points. They’re a little tricky to remove since they’re captive in the throwbar but the rivet point is the weak spot and you can work them back and forth until they snap off.
This helps keep the point rail from electrically contacting the stock rail too soon before the Tortoise switch makes it short.
ED