DCC Compatible turnouts?

So I’ve been trying to decide what track and turnouts I’m going to use on my layout…I think i’ve decided to use Micro Engineering’s code 83 track, and I had originally wanted to use thier turnouts as well, but with the article in last months MR about DCC and turnouts, I’m not so sure anymore.

Does anyone have any advise? I will be using Digitrax DCC.

Thanks in advance.

Go with Peco turnouts:

  1. They have a spring to hold the joints tightly against the rail
  2. Insulfrog (plastic frog) or Electrofrog (power-routing)
  3. In most cases affordable (especially on quality)
  4. Very rugged
    The only drawback is that is is based on a British practice, but once you lay ballast, it is totally unnoticeable.
    Andrew

There is no issue with using ME turnouts and DCC.

As a “best” practice, it is adviseable to put gaps in the rails that go throw the frog, just past the frog, and jumper power from the other side of the turnout to these points. This is with ANY turnout. It is not always required, but it is a “safe” practice.

e-mail me directly for a diagram.

Regarding PECO, I think that they are great turnouts, and soon to be available in code 83 to USA design practices. But if you are going to the expense to gain the realism of ME track, go with thier turnouts also. My personal preference is PECO turnouts and Atlas flex track, but ME is much more realistic appearing.

Does anyone like the new Shinohara turnouts from Walthers??? I, too am just starting in DCC and with a new layout after a hiatus of 20 yrs. Just trying not to make an expensive mistake.

Thanks Dickiee! That was going to be my next question!

The thing that I’m not really partial to are turnouts with rivets on the closure rails…you know the ones that are about halfway down? To me they don’t look very realistic.

I have noticed Walthers new code 83 turnouts pretty cheap at some of the mailorder companies. I wish Micro Engineering had a website to show off thier product line (maybe they do and I just can’t find it?), but none of the LHS’s around me stock anything from ME…makes it a little difficult to see what I’m getting. Even Walters website doesn’t have very good pictures. I have heard several times to not bother with the exspense of the ME or Walthers track and turnouts and go with Atlas…

What should be the considerations when deciding on track?

Thanks guys

For reliable operation - like club shows; PECO requires the least maintence. They are definitely not the most realistic looking. ME is probably the most realistic looking, and operate well.

See: http://www.ablehobby.com/micro_engineering.htm

There is a great looking line of ME turnouts that also have the “snap action” like the Pecos. You get the sure fire throw without installing ground throws and the great looks of a Micro Engineering turnout.

I have had trouble using the Walthers/Shnohara turnouts. There is a small brass tab that is supposed to slide under the stock rail to give good electrical contact. However, on most of the turnouts I’ve used, this tab gets bent out of place easily and jams between the points and the stock rails. I have removed all he brass tabs and the turnouts work very well with DCC now.

As to the shorting that occurs when the back of the wheels touch the points and the stock rails, I’ve only encounted this is with six wheel diesel trucks and six wheel passenger trucks. I now paint the back side of the wheels with a back enamel paint and it has seemed to solve all the shorting problems.

Thanks duncattle…I am planning on running large steam and a few heavyweight cars, so your tip is much apprieciated!

I just saw that ME has a rail weathering solution. Does anyone have any experience using this or should i be looking into the pre-weathered rail? There is only a few dollars difference between weathered and non. Any opinions??

Thanks everyone!

I personally am disappointed in the new “DCC-READY” turnouts code 83 from Walthers/Shinohara. They have essentially made it an Atlas turnout for twice the money of an Atlas. They have electrically isolated the points (no more solid bar connecting left and right point railson the throw bar) and insulated the frog on both sides. To wire through the frog to get good electrical continuity is a whole lot more work now than it used to be. Correctly wiring turnouts was never a difficult thing to do, and MR published many articles on this. My advice: stock up on the old ones when you can find them.

Use atlas