Has anyone done some ? All have circuit boards, but how to install the decoder ?? And what decoder to use?? Have I missed a article somewhere ? Also need info on Proto 1000 F3’s.
Proto has a 800 number, and Chuck is who to ask for for DCC info. But could not find out what and how to use decoder.
I have the same question. Has any of the DCC manf. looked at a Windows driven software to program DCC.?
Were the P2K DCC from the get go?
Jon - Las Vegas
http://www.litchfieldstation.com/s/i/ho/hod/hod.html
Follow this link…
I did the E7 installation as described here. Got rid of the built in light board and installed the Mars kit, It was a relatively easy installation and works great. I used the Digitrax decoder suggested.
http://www.tcsdcc.com/decoderpics/llf3a.html
Follow this link to a good shot of the P1K installation. I have done this with both a TCS decoder and a cheap Lenz decoder. Again an easy install.
Some of the oldest P2K’s (mid 90’s ?) were not DCC ready in the true sense, but they can still be converted.
WOW…I am so impressed…two great web sites with excellent info on how to do it. Thanks so much guys…Dave
I did an SD7, it has an 8-pin socket, but the wiring on the board is so screwy I just trashed it all and hard wired the decoder. A TCS T-1 was used.
I have some E’s to do. I traced out the circuit board on them and it looks OK to use as-is with a decoder with an 8-pin plug. Probably TCS T-1 (any idea what may favorite decoder is these days?). The ones I have are all non-Mars light units.
–Randy
If you do remove the light board and Mars light from an P2K E, you can use the board and Mars bulb as a flashing unit. I installed it behind a small clear plastic piece in the top of a structure as a warning flasher.
Yes, if your units have Mars lights, remove that stuff and install a normal light bulb, and use the decoder’s special effects - it makes a better Mars light than the dual filament bulb in the P2K locos.
–Randy
I’ve converted one of their C-Liners (same circuit board as the F3 you also mention that you’re looking for advice on). Very simple job - you need to cut three circuit board tracks (places marked with an “x”, I just used a cutting wheel in a rotary tool which worked perfectly). When you come to fit the decoder, best advice would be to buy a wired one (rather than one with a plug) - those holes in the board aren’t at the right spacing so best approach is to solder to the “pads” around the holes (or solder the wires through the holes) instead - just be careful to avoid possible shorts (good trick would be to solder one side’s wires, cover with insulating tape, then solder the other side’s wires into place). I mounted the decoder at the back of the existing board using a lump of blue-tack - insulating, and where the decoder is it’s effectively suspended in mid-air over the rear truck, which has to be good for cooling. I did this in preference to removing the original board as the original board has the wiring for the headlight (including a beefy resistor) built in - saving me effort in replacing it and helping to make a neater installation. Hope this is of some help!
P.S. I fitted one of the cheap Bachmann single-function decoders to mine and now wish I hadn’t - the speed curve factory-programmed into these is terrible - a massive spike at around speed step 2 or 3 makes slow running (or even pulling away without spreading your passengers across the back wall of the cars) impossible. I’m planning to retro-fit Lenz 1025 decoders when funds are available - these have BEMF, are silent, and have a far better factory speed curve.
Guys,
Thanks for the helpful tips. If you’re doing an E7, the last batch from Proto was released in 1999 so even brand new in the box today, they’ve been sitting on shelves for a while.
Good advice above but I’ll be using Warm-White L.E.D lights instead of bulbs for the headlight. For the Mars Light I’ll be using a bulb.
Cheers!