DCC decoder for Genesis GP-9

I just purchased a Genesis GP-9 DC engine and would like to add a DCC decoder. I am not interested in adding sound as I also have one with Tsuami sound. I want to run them together so all I need is a decoder for the new DC engine.

Has anyone added DCC to one of their DC units and if so what decoder did you use. I called Athearn and they said they weren’t permitted to advise me of what decoder to use since there were several that I could use. Sounds like a cop out to me so that will be the last Athearn engine I ever buy.

Hope someone can help. I purchased a Digitrax DH165AO per there web site but it doesn’t work.

Thanks for any help.

MC Richmond

Why doesn’t the DH165A0 work? It completely replaces the factory circuit board.

If there’s a 9 pin plug, get a TCS T1A (the one with no harness - $1 cheaper). I have a pair of Bowser/Stweart F units, other than one being an A and the other a B, they are identical, same drivetrains and so forth. One has a Tsunami, the other I put a TCS in, the TCS self-adjusting BEMF has it running pretty well witht he Tsunami without making any changes whatsoever.

–Randy

i will second the question on not working? What do you mean?

Really any decoder should work and unless it cannot fit.

Chris

rrinker & stilson

Maybe won’t work isn’t the correct way to put it. The board on the GP-9 has nine wires coming out of it and another plug on the end of those wires. I put a DH165AO in an Atlas GP-7 and the DC board was similarly to the DH165 so it was an easy swap. I am just not sure what all the additional wires are needed for and if the must be soldered to the board.

That 9 wire connector is where you can plug in the 9 plug DCC decoder. All it is is that you can plug in a decoder rather than the wire swap. If you are replacing the board that connection is not required.

Chris

You MUST remove the dummy plug from the 9-wire socket if you are going to install a decoder into the 8-pin socket, or the decoder will go ‘poof’.

The DH165A0 is a complete board repalcement for Atlas/Athearn/Kato locos - it completely repalces the board already in the loco, and has wire connections on the ends for the track pickups and lights, and connections on the side for the motor wires.

A 9 pin decoder, like a DH165 or the TCS T1 (of if you need extra functions for ditch lights or anything, T4) will plug right in to the existing board on the end of the short 9 wire cable, after you remove the little board that’s there with a couple of components on it, that’s the ‘dummy plug’ that wires together the track pickups, motor wires, and lights for use on DC. Bascially, it connects together the wires that would go to a DCC decoder if one were installed. You unplug that, plug in a decoder, and you’re all set. No soldering, nothing more than getting the shell off to get inside.

–Randy

I too have a Genesis GP9 DC version and plan to install a non-sound decoder. As far as using harnessed decoders I saw the following post in Atlas Rescue Forums:

It appears from this that there isn’t much or enough room for a separate decoder? Replacing the circuit board seems to be the solution.

Depends on how big the decoder is. I put sound in one recent AThearn that had the 9 pin plug ont he short harness, using a QSI for 9 pin that the customer supplied me, I was able to flip it over and stuff it down under the cab into the short hood. Don;t bend it back and forth though,t he wire will break. I couldn;t leave the decoder up top because it was too big to clear the speaker enclosure that was up under the fans. So witht he decoder flipped over, I could use a bigger speaker under the dynamic hatch.

–Randy

Right. But the point is, if one person had problems getting a harnessed pnp decoder to fit, others may also. Just because the decoder is suggested by the manuracturer for a model, doesn’t mean it will fit gracefully.

I just wanted to point this out so anyone planning to add a decoder to the Genesis GP9 could save themselve the possible trouble. It sounds like a “safer” bet to go with circuit board replacement decoder than a plug in.

A board repalcement surely would work, Just have to watch out that there is current limiting in place for the bulbs, or replace those horrible bulbs Athearn insists on using in top dollar locos with LEDs.

My method ALWAYS works - but is a bit extreme for a beginner. That being, rip out all the factory boards, and install a (generally cheaper than board replacement with the same features) wired decoder. Keeps you from being caught by some silly error witht he factory board.

–Randy

Just wanted to update everyone on the progress on adding DCC to my GP-9. The LHS let me trade in the decoder for a DH163D. The nine pin decoder seemed like an easy update and I excited to give it a try. The problem is once it was installed nothing happened. Has anyone ever had a Digitrax decoder DOA? Now I am trying to get the decoder back out and put in the original plug to see if the engine still runs. I know Digitrax has a great warranty but is there a way to test the decoder before I send it back to Digitrax?

riogrande5761: Don’t worry about taking off the window shades, mine fell off when I took it out the box.

MC

Ok another update. I finally got the DCC plug out and put the DC plug back in and the engine ran just fine. I noticed the plastic on the end of the decoder may have been preventing it from going in all the way. I cut them out and reinstalled the decoder and everything works. Now I just have to get all the pieces that fell off back on the engine. Why can’t them make them like they used to with either metal hand rails or a heaver plastic?

Thanks to everyone for the help.

MC

Thanks for the update. BTW, I don’t recall saying anything about window shades, where did that come from?

Sorry, you mentioned wind guards windows and I thought you were talking about the shades.

I did? I went back and reread the only two posts I made in this topic and didn’t see any mention of wind guards or cab shades or any parts like that. I only came in to comment on how another modeler found the plug in decoder wouldn’t fit and allow the shell to fully sit back on the chassis.