If you’re REALLY going to run only ONE loco EVER, then probably not. But if you EVER intend on running more than one, then yes I would recommend it. People keep ***ing about the cost, but dam, by the time you add up all the relays, wiring and little extras with DC you couldda bought a Zephyr. I’d think about it a long time if I were you.
Here’s the latest deal.
At a run locally, a guy had a unit using a DCC-type control (same commands, handpiece, number of buttons).
Off he goes on a single-track main.
I am watching him, as there are two geared logging trains on the main, and he’s a GP-38.
He has his face buried in the handpiece, pushing buttons.
Finally I walk over and ask him if he has any idea where his train is.
He jumps up, looks around, and says, no.
I recommend he stop as he’s about to take a logging train out.
We run zero track power, zero wires to the track.
Any number of trains at th same time, although my rr has only had 20 at once.
The stuff I use is easy, no LCD readout, no knobs.
There is a reason for this.
Operating in the real dark, you can’t see the readout, so it does you no good.
Plus, a knob precludes the use of a small zip-lock baggie to allow running in the rain.
Then, running outdoors with the current requirements, needs so many power districts (with associated wiring, signal AND 110v) as to make it basically an isolated, block-wired railroad.
You had best read the front page of the magazine better.
Doen’t say “Model Railroader…for Half-Zero and Nano–Scale modelers only”.
I see folks who want instant gratification without paying their dues and learning the basics first.
How often do you see “How do you install a decoder in thus and so?”.
And how many wires is that?
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People need to learn their system, not just attempt to use it. I can’t quite select a loco with my DT400 without looking at the buttons - but then I can’t touch type either, and I’ve been using typewriters and keyboards far longer than DCC. Once runnignt hough I can turn on the lights and blow the horn and change direction without ever lookign at the handheld. Plus the Digitrax handhelds with displays have backlights so you CAN see them in the dark. And even a handy built-in flashlight to read car cards in the dark, or shine on cars to see the numbers.
I’ll give you the knob issue when you need to wrap the controller in a plastic bag - but other than that, I can’t STAND pushbutton-only controls. Gimme an encoder knob any day - I don’t even like regular old potentiometers anymore.
As for small layouts - DCC might be even MORE critical on a smaller layout. On a large layout you can have alrge enough blocks far enough apart that you can run multiple trains fairly easily with good old-fashioned cab control. But on a small layout, you can’t make enough blocks, and they are too close together, which results in frantic toggle flipping when trying to run more than one train. With DCC you have complete freedom of control. And of course freedom to smack head-on into another train…
–Randy
Ah, but with battery r/c, no looking to link to a loco, no readouts, run anytime, no programming tracks…
When the man is right, he’s right. Of course you CAN stick with DC for now if you will only ever run one engine. But, you won’t. Trust us on this one…you will not be content for long with just one engine. At some point, you, or a friend, will want to add a second loco for variety, and “poof”, instant headaches.
So, On39Shay’s counsel is worthy of consideration. If you go for a good starter set of DCC now, then when you add the second loco, not only will you be familiar with DCC, but you can add that loco as easily as placing its wheels properly on the rails…just like that. Give it an adress, and you now have a two-loco layout.
What I am also finding to be utterly amazing is ready-to-run units with the decoders as part of the internal circuit boards.
Then, the squawks as folks realize the built-in doesn’t do what they want, and they can’t change it.
I’ve seen on on manufacturer’s board the recommendation from some just to buy another engine.
In #1 gauge, there are some proprietary dcc-like units that if it goes, it’s $150 to fix it.
And rumor has it that may increase in number of manufacturers.
I have told folks more than once, it can’t be that hard.
2 wires to track, 2 to motor, 2 to headlight, 2 to back light and you’re running.
Some have pigtails for that purpose, larger ones have screw terminals (just ripped out an NCE in a 1:29 GP-9, so I know).
Belly button.
Everybodies gotta have one.
Like T-buckets with small block Chebbies.
I made dang sure I knew what I was doing with flatheads before I went any further, same with control systems.
Remember not everybody is a gearhead or a techno-geek.
I am both, but I don’t do dcc.
At All.
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I know exactly what you mean. I’m an HO man, have a 1 mile main line with 2 passing sidings, and 18 Kato, Atlas and proto engines. I want more…MORE! That’s why I am building a second layout, but it won’t have passing sidings.
Matthew
How do you know I’m a man? You been feelin up my skirt again?
[:I][:O][B)] Was that your skirt? Sorry.
hehehehe
Danged four-wheeled contraptions. Too noisy I tell you. Smell to make you gag. They’ll never catch on. Never see me cranking the front end of one of them things.
Hey Buddy, get a horse!
Never catch on I tell ya.
“How come buddy over there can run his locos away from each other on the same stretch of track, and mine go the same direction, even if I turn one around? Huh, why is that?”
“Well, son, some people would say, not I mind you, but some people would say that you are a little behind the times. Can you say “luddite”?”
I can run mine in any direction…I can even do something you can’t.
I can run them across the floor without track to prove a point.
It’s so nice some times not to know any better.
I’m still in the process of learning all this, building my layout etc. I have the benchwork mostly done and about 85 feet of mainline and I don’t know how many switches and spur lines.
None of it is soldered.
None of it is glued down.
The only electrical connection is two little thin wires running from the Zephry to the tracks. I’m running diesels and steam… a 2-6-6-4… all over the place with hardly a hitch. I sometimes run two trains at the time, one right behind the other.
I’m sure glad I didn’t have to become an electrical genius or a rocket scientist in the process.
If I would’ve had to went the dc route, I wouldn’t have done it.
Jarrell
Oh if I was going to build large scale outdoors I’d use battery r/c in a heartbeat. Power the track, but only to run recharging circuits for longer run times, and not worry about it getting dirty. Relying on outdoor track to conduct electricity for reliable operation borders on insane.
–Randy
So now you see.
Can’t really make a blanket statement about one type of control being the end-all.
And there are more scales and gauges than Half-Zero and Nano.
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