I have been out of Model RRing for a while now. I used to model in HO, in the past few years my interests have changed and I am now modeling in N Scale. Now that I am getting back into in actively, I need to know what I need to do power wise. I would love to go DCC, but my locos do not have DCC decoders installed. SHould I set up my new layout on blocks with multiple Packs, or should I go with DCC and install the decoders? Also, are all locos compatiable with DCC with decoders installed? This is where I need the most help. At least for now… LOL Thanks for the help up front!
The general opinion seems to be that once you try DCC you will never go back.
It is truly awesome.
The loco compatabillity depends on weather you purchased DCC ready or not. Most manufacturers are selling most if not all new units DCC ready. THis means you can purchase a decoder made specifically for the loco. The big problem with older locos is isolating the motor and in N space. In N the new locos frames are milled and slotted for a decoder where the older Non DCC locos need to be modified. You will need to refer to the original packaging or remove the body and see if there is a circuit board with the lights conected to each end, if so you can purchase plug and play decoders for it.
You can get into DCC fairly inexpensively but the more locos you need to convert will also drive up this cost. There are many manufacturers who make plug and play decoders so competion keeps the price somewaht reasonable.
If you are not sure if your locos are DCC ready, take one to a train/hobby shop who serves the DCC folks and they will explain the difference. They are usually very willing to help as there is only money to make.
Give it a go, you won’t be dissapointed.
My most recent HO-scale layout is wired only for DCC and I would never consider going back to DC block control. Our local HO-scale club’s 20x40 foot layout was wired so we can run either way, and the electrical wiring itself was, and continues to be, a real nightmare. If you go for DCC only, you can totally do away with control panels and all of their attendant toggle switches. I use Tortoise slow-motion switch motors or Caboose Industries ground throws on all of my turnouts. Those that are powered are controlled by North Coast Engineering Switch-It decoders. I do still have a few toggle switches buried in the fascia board for sidings that I might want to park a sound-equipped engine on and not have the sound effects continually playing.
As far as your locomotives are concerned, I too have several very early MDC and Tyco/Mantua cast metal steam engines that were made from kits back in the late 1960’s to early 1970’s, as well as many newer models. Some of the older engines are not worth the cost of a decoder because they don’t run well enough on DC. Despite what some people think, DCC will not improve a locomotive’s running qualities – if it doesn’t run using DC, it’s not going to be worth the price of a decoder. Those locomotives I just have on display instead of trying to operate them.
I have installed decoders into over 100 engines, both steam and diesel. The most critical aspect of decoder installation in older locomotives is insuring that the motor brushes are totally isolated from the frame. Many of the older MDC and similar engines had one motor brush grounded to the locomotive frame. For motors of this type, if they still run well enough to justify the cost of a decoder, it’s not too difficult to isolate the motor from the frame by placing electrical tape under the motor and using a nylon screw instead of metal to hold the motor in position. Carefully checking the mot
Depends on your budget and time frame. You can build a DC layout and convert later to DCC. Just use a double gap at each block , no common rails, run a power bus, #12 awg STRANDED under the table and # 22awg solid drops abouth every 3 ft to the bus. This way all you have to do is hook RAIL “A” red wire and rail “B” black wire to the command station and you are DCC bound.
The DCC things is as good as they say it is. BUT it takes MORE THAN 2 wires to run it. As far as loco’s go you can SOLDER in decoders, if you have that skill or in my case wanted to learn it or you can just purchase DCC on board loco’s.
Your DC power pack can be used for lights and turnouts. Getting a Digitraz Zephyer is what a lot of folks are buying. Randy R has his doing as much as my monster system does.
I went big time DCC and love it. Full radio and being able to select a route and have the turnouts change plus walking along with out having to plug and unplug us a lot more fun.
My last railroad when I was a teenager in the 1960’s was JUNK compared to what the kids of today have.
I started up again after 20 years last year and my only regret is I didn’t go DCC right off the bat. I wasted a couple hundred getting set up in DC.
My second regret is I did not go radio from the start of DCC. Wasted another hundred trying to make IR work.
The reason I waited is because no one told me I could run my old engines on DCC.
I have put decoders in a couple of old engines including sound in an old brass engine. If I can do it, you sure can.
Go fot it.
I guess I need to read up more on how DCC decoding is installed. Also, does any decoder work, or do I need to be model specific? With DCC decoder installed, will it also run on Non DCC layouts? just in case I need to transfer a loco at some point. Looks like I have a lot of fun in store for me. 
Let me know. and thank you!!
Decoders are very easy to install. Some locomotives are plug and play, you just buy a decoder with correct plug and… well… plug it in. For locos that arent DCC ready (plug and play) you have to hard wire a decoder yourself, which is a little more difficult than plugging one in but not hard at all. Most decoder’s manuals have a little graphic that will tell you which wire goes to what and its up to you to figure out how to accomplish that. You have a right side track pickup, left side track pickup, Motor +, motor -, and then any number of wires for whatever else the decoder can do, like lights or sound.
I like TCS decoders, they are very reliable and you cant beat thier warranty. If you ruin the decoder for any reason they will replace it for free. www.tcsdcc.com
Most decoders now, including TCS are dual mode. that means they will run on DC or DCC. But you lose some functionality on DC and the operation is not quite as good.
Thanks to NMRA standards, any decoder will work on any system. The only thing I suggest is to stay away from MRC, simply because they are junk. Any other brand will work fine.
Good luck
I checked out the website tcsdcc.com, and couldn’t find decoders for my loco. I’m so lost, is that bad? hey at least I admit it. How do I know which decoders to buy for my locos. I’m not sure, I need to find an online resource or a good book, cheaply priced of course… lol. know of any good online resources, so I know what to do and how? My locos, at least one I know of, say DCC ready. The others don’t have any Docs stating whether they are or not. Ugh!
Check NCE’s decoder list here and see if your loco is listed…
You can also look at Digitrax decoders. That’s what I have used successfully.
Ah OK, some decoders are designed for specific engines and some are just decoders. A TCS T1 will work in just about anything as long as there is enough room. If space is a problem and MC2 or M1 should work. If you need more lights you upgrade to a T6X, M2, whatever you need.
What engines do you have that need decoders? maybe I can point you to proper decoders.
I’ve got a Life Like 7842 SP39 Loco Life Like 7601 F40 Loco (Double Header Set) Life Like 7708 SD7 Bachmann 54562 2-8-2 Mikado and Bachmann Spectrum GE Dash 8-40CW Item# 86055 Any help would be awesome!!! thanks again