I’m down to one loco left to install a decoder in, a first release Proto 2000 BL2. The mechanism is very similar to that of an Athearn BB so I’m guessing the decoder installation would be similar as well? Other than the PCB that appears to be there for the directional lighting, everything else is very BBish. I am planning on using a Digitrax DH123 decoder.
I’m planning on doing the same loco, with the same decoder. I’d also love to have a quick tutorial if anyone has done this.
HD
I have two P2k gp 18’s that I would like to install decoders in, I am thinking they are simular to the BL2s so would be interested in any hints or problems others might have with an install.
My GP18 is currently in storage, took a spill off the railroad from Catzilla. I’m not sure if that is the same mechanism, although it is probably similar if not the same since I recall it coming out shortly after the BL2 was released.
I’ve put decoders into two of the first version P2K BL-2 models. I don’t recall all of the gory details, but don’t remember having to disassemble the frame to isolate the motor. I believe that Proto 1000 and Proto 2000 models have always had a can motor that is totally isolated from the frame, because I have installed decoders into nearly 30 of them with no problems. The biggest challenge are ones with a mars light.
Upon inspection of the mechanism I’ve noticed that there is a wire that runs from the PCB to the frame in the rear of the loco. If the motor is already isolated, is this where you recall attaching the grey wire from the decoder? On an Athearn BB loco the grey wire would normally go on the bottom of the motor after being isolated from the frame, I usually do this with a piece of electrical tape.
As near as I can recall, every P2K engine, including the infamous BL-2, has two wires connected to each truck, two wires to the motor, and 2 or more wires to headlihht(s), all going to the circuit board. I never trust color codes of the wiring, so if a visual check is unable to determine where a particular wire goes, I use a VOM with a built-in tone generator to perform a continuity check.
Unless the engine is a newer one with a DCC socket on the circuit board, I remove the board and throw it away. It’s much easier to install a decoder into a locomotive that has no circuit board. The decoder will do everything that the circuit board has been doing, only much better.
Cannoli, just finished checking out one of my gp18s, and looks much like an athearn as you mentioned. I used and ohm meter and it does look like the motor is isolated from the frame and seem like a simple install. Hopefully you will find the same with the BL2. If you have an ohm meter check it out for isolation and might save you from breaking everything down.
You DO have to isolate the motor in the first generation BL-2 locos. At least I did when I installed a decoder in mine. The motor was NOT isolated from the frame. A piece of Vinyl electrical tape cut to the correct width with a razor blade did the trick. Took the light board out and installed resistors since the lamps are 1.5V.
I would be tempted to use something like the NCE DA-SR decoder since dropping resistors are already built into the board. Simpler installation.