dcc installation in older brass models

Have started wiring my new layout and am going to use DCC for the supply.
However I got to looking at some of my “prized” brass models from the 1970’s-1980’s and they have open frame Pittman style motors in them. Will I have to re-motor all these steam locos ( about 12) or will they work with the decoders available when I chose the DCC system (currently deciding between NCE and the MRC Prodigy)? Anybody else run into this situation? What did you do to fix this? Or am I forced into NOT using these locos at all?
MartyBalto

I currently have one of my prized brass engines converted to DCC and did not have to put a new motor in it. Unfortunately I had someone else do it for me and he passed away before he could do the others. Ask around at your LHS I’m sure they’ll no someone who can help.

It’s going to depend on how much current they draw and how easy it will be to isolate the motor (most of those older motors have one of the brushes grounded directly o the motor case itself, and then naturally to the brass frame it’s fastened to). Bowser sells a replacemetn Pittman-type motor designed to retrofit their loco kits what has isolated terminals, otherwise it’s an exact physical match for the old motor and is easy to install. This might work in certain brass applications, providing a properly isolated yet easy to install motor solution.
There are decoders available that can handle 8 amps or more, mainly for large scale trains, but some are small enough to fit in the tenders of HO steam locos. However, if you have many of these locos out there drawing 2-3 amps each, you’re going to need a lot of power, as it a lot of extra boosters. Better I think to remotor the high current locos with more modern and efficient can motors, you’ll get smoother and quieter performance plus reduced current draw.

–Randy

Marty;

All that you have to do is to isolate the motor electrically from the chassis. Each model will be different.

The motors in brass locomotives are usually held in place by a screw that runs up through the frame. You will not need to change the motors, but you will need to insulate the motors from the frame by taking them out, putting insulating electrical tape between the motor and frame, and using a nylon screw instead of metal to fasten the motor back in place. Lenz, Digitrax, NCE, and TCS all make decoders with a 2 Amp rating, which should be adequate for these old Pittman motors.