This is more of a platform question than a specific DCC question, which is why I’m posting here.
I am starting to buy parts to build the Atlas HO-14 “Improving the simple Oval” layout and was glad I went ahead and made my track DCC; it looks like a lot less wiring that way, even though all I have right now is a DCC loco pulling a gondola, oil tanker and a caboose, and another locomotive with DC capabilities that came with the other non-loco cars (Red Rock Express set).
My issue is that I am going to have six turnout configs on the HO-14 (2 LH #4, 2 RH #4, 2 Wyes) and was wondering if it would be better to use switch machines that aren’t under the table and wire them to two separate stationary decoders. I ask because my plywood bench is 3/4" thick and I want to add foam core as a base so I don’t have to keep drilling into wood. I know the Atlas under-table machines won’t work with this kind of thickness (no more than 1" I’m told).
If this is better for the DCC forum, please move it, and you have my apologies in advance.
These are really separate issues. DCC gives you the ability to operate turnouts with stationary decoders, but you don’t have to do it that way. And, the way you mount the switch machines isn’t a factor in the way you control them. I have a DCC layout, and a lot of Atlas turnouts. Part of my layout is Code 100, and part is Code 83. For Atlas switch machines in particular, this is a big difference. For some reason, the Code 100 machines are much larger than the Code 83 machines. I’ve gone to a lot of effort to hide the machines beneath scenery, because I just hate the way they look. The smaller Code 83 machines don’t bother me nearly as much. I would recommend at least looking at Tortoise machines. They move the points over slowly, which is more realistic and more pleasing to the eye than the fast snap-over of twin-coil machines. They come with built-in contact closures for wiring signals or powering frogs. And, they will drive the turnouts from below through a lot of base thickness. The disadvantage of Tortoises is the price, but if you’ve only got a half-dozen turnouts, that’s much less of a factor. One thing that the above-table Atlas machines give you, though, is the ability to throw the switches manually. Tortoises can’t do that, and must be thrown electrically.
I should have mentioned that my track is Code 83.
The tortoise machines are nice, but at $20-30 a pop, I’m not sure that’s what I want. I’ve already spent enough as is with the Digitrax Super Empire Builder DCC set; I’d like to hold off any huge expenses for a while.
I’ll look at above table for now and if I decide down the road I want under-table I’ll add a Tortoise machine here and there. This isn’t going to be for the front cover of MR magazine, or even close to that.
One more question. In all likelihood, I’m going to have some Kato Unitrack that’s not going to be used, because I didn’t like the limited range of track parts for it. If I’ve only had it for a couple of months, is eBaying the track the way to go?
Tortoises are $19.95 list, if you are paying that it’s time to mail order and skip the LHS. AN alternative for the same $19.95 is the Tam Valley Singlet with servo - that gets you a controller with pushbuttons and LED indicators that also happens to be a DCC stationary decoder, plus a servo (like used in RC planes). You can cut the costs a bit by getting the servos on eBay and buying the Singlet as a kit - kit in this case means you have to solder on 2 pushbuttons and 2 LEDs. It works out to the same per turnout as a Tortoise, except that you also get the DCC decoder and the buttons and LEDs.
–Randy
I would try out the Atlas Code 83 machines. If you don’t like them you could always change them out for something different.
In 1:1 scale most switch machines are “above the table”. Zoom lens at a crossing.
The switch machine is on the right. The apparatus on the left is the switch heater/blower assembly, which keeps snow from clogging the switch and making it not work in the winter.
I’ll do that then.
The resident DCC expert at my local (well…RELATIVELY local) train shop was helpful Saturday in telling me that it was a matter of aesthetics. If it’s not too intrusive, and the photo you have shows it wouldn’t really be, that may be the way to go.
I’m not sure I really want to use DCC to control turnouts, at least for now, anyway. I can use a little elbow grease.
If by “elbow grease” you mean purely mechanical operation, remember that you still need some sort of device to hold the points against the rails. Atlas snap-switches come with manual units that look like switch machines, but without the power. Atlas Customline turnouts don’t have these. The most common mechanical unit is the Caboose Industries ground-throw.
Peco turnouts have a built-in spring to hold the points, so they don’t need anything to hold them in place.
If you are looking at retrofitting your switch machines later, remember that the Atlas remote switch machine lists for $11.75. Less than the Tortoise, true, but it doesn’t come with contact closures, and can’t be mounted below the table.
If you are looking at retrofitting your switch machines later, remember that the Atlas remote switch machine lists for $11.75. Less than the Tortoise, true, but it doesn’t come with contact closures, and can’t be mounted below the table.
Well not quite,
Mine have been operating below the table for over two years without complaint. In some places the plywood joints are one inch thick (two layers of 1/2" plywood). Granted Atlas motors are not as as positive but I use a capacitor discharge circuit and they trip firmly. My little devise below.
“poor people have poor ways”
Lee