I am new to DCC and need avice on a starter set. I have 16x20 layout and run sixteen locomotives and will be adding more in the future. What type of DCC system would be recommended and what type or kind of decoders would be needed? Also, I have read that some headlights may need to be changed any advice would be appreciated.
I reccomend a book DCC made Easy, now availible on Amazon.com for under $10. There are many other books also
TCS makes great starting decoders, they dont have all the bells and whistles but cost only about $20. Plus if you mess up the installation and burn it up(which will likely happen to you more than once) if you mail it to them they will send you a new one free of charge. They call it the “goof proof” warranty. Ive installed several and am very happy with them.
In the last month, I have purchased the NCE Powehouse Pro and installed 7 decoders. The first decoder I installed didn’t work right. Not sure if I fried it or it was bad. Anyway, I sent it in and was honest with them about possibly doing it myself, but they replaced it free of charge.
NCE’s system is really built for the user. The system and decoder manuals are simple and easy to follow. The decoders, especially the DA-SR, are lift-out, drop-in installations for existing circuit boards. The NCE system is retail priced at $499.95, but you can pick one up for around $325. Two decoders are included with the NCE system. I know that seems high compared to the the Digitrax Zephyr system, but you’ll never regret the additional investment.
With a Proto 1000 or Proto 2000 locomotive, you either have to replace the lightbulb or put a resistor inline with the headlight. Personally, I recommend the golden-white LED with resistor instead of the Proto headlight. You’ll be amazed at how bright they really are. With these, I can read number boards in the dark. With an Atlas Master or Classic loco, the existing headlights will work just the way they are. The LED’s have a life that far outweighs bulbs.
An early temptation with DCC is to use the 8-pin plug to connect the decoder to the locomotives existing circuitry. These work fine, but you may come to find that the NCE DA-SR decoder, which replaces the circuit board, is actually easier and eliminates distance and possible continuity breaks between the rails and the DC motor. Also, if you have any problems, it is easier to troubleshoot if you have less circuitry to check out. In addition, the NCE DA-SR can be installed with no soldering required.
Find a dealer you can trust and stick with them. I’ve had several phone conversations with the guy I get my decoders from. They can be really helpful. Allow them to make recommendations on your specific installation. They offer a wide range of products and can recommend a decoder for al
Florien, LA? Not many train stores in Florien, I reckon. My wife’s dad lived in Florien many years ago. I was there a couple of years ago.
NCE, Digitrax and Lenz are all good systems. Take it slow and try to get your hands on some systems, at least at a LHS. I use Atlas but there are better starter systems out there now, I think.
If you can afford $200-300 (just to start) go ahead an get a full system when you’ve decided which one. You’ll probably want some walk-around throttles, either tethered or radio depending on the size of your layout.
Decoders cost from $15 up depending on features. I use the $15 -$25 variety so far.
Have fun!
Hello mpleasant,
You ask about a starter set for DCC. The Digitrax Zephyr fits this description and is a great little box, (I have one and love it). However, your layout is a decent size and depending on how many locomotives you want to run simultaneously, it may not be up to the task. On the other hand, if you want to start off spending less and building up, then it might be a good starting point for you.
Things to consider:
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Do you want walk around hand held throttle or is a static control location what you want?
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How many locomotives running concurrently? How many opperators?
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Do you want wireless control either now or in the future?
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What else might you like to add in the future? Signalling, PC control etc.
Also, check out www.wiringfordcc.com depending on your layouts use under DC you may need to consider wiring issues.
Those comments that you try before you buy and be aware of the learning curve ring a bell with me.Having returned to the hobby after many years I jumped off the deep end and bought a Digitrax Empire Builder II to run on my intended home layout, based on reading and discussions with my LHS, a knowledgble guy. After two years, no layout other than a test track on a plank, and I’ve only used the Digitrax to check out my new locos before I run them at the local club. Each time I do so I have to refresh my memory as to how to use the DT300 throttle, even though I have yet to install decoders in any locos and get into programming (the club is still DC). I find the tiny knobs and the clicking detent action on the knobs a bit annoying; I would have preferred a larger, say 2 in. dia knob, as some systems seem to have, also a smoother non clicking rotation, although that may not may be possible due to the electronics involved.
Oh well, I’ve got the system and enough decoders for my six steamers, so sooner (I hope) than later I’ll fit several locos with decoders and find somewhere to run them on DCC.
As a question to readers, what has your experience been running decoder equipped locos on DC layouts. Is it hazardous to the health of the decoders?
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I know for a fact that all digitrax decoders automatically detect either a DC system or a DCC system, so if your using digitrax decoders you have no worries.
As for others, some you have to set a jumper on the decoder (so I have heard) others I think you can program to recognize a DC system.
The new MRC Advanced Prodigy sounds interesting , and is at a low price point. Should be available soon. Check MR mag for stores.
For that big a layout and that many trains, I recommend three of digitrax’s second level start sets.
Thank all of for your replies. All of your information and recommendations will be very useful in making my decision. Thanks again!
This isn’t quite true. Digitrax decoders do not automatically detect DC or DCC. All decoders have the ability to run on DC if programmed to do so. It is up to you to program them that way - or not.
As for a jumper, Atlas decoders are dual mode decoders that you can set a jumper to run it as solely DC or DCC. If you set the jumper to use DCC, you can still program it to run on DC. This is cool stuff.
Digitrax decoders come directly from the factory programmed to auto detect DC or DCC, yes you can change this but by default (according to the digitrax manuals) they come this way. Additionally when you reset the decoder (cv08) it will turn this feature back on if you programmed it to not recognize DC.
It’s a nice feature, I have never chnaged this because my home layout is DCC and the club layout is DC.
I can’t speak for other decoders due to the fact that I use only digitrax. Except for one 1 NCE decoder used in an P2K SW9, and I am quite happy with the ones I use.