Hi, I am interested in a dcc system for my L-shaped layout. I’ve been using those little DC power packs since I started in 2010, which are a pain. They don’t carry enough power I need for my L-shaped layout. On my layout, I have 2 main lines that are connected by 2 turnouts, 1 oval shaped line Which I also connected to the main line(s) by my small switching yard, and 1 line which will (in the future) go to a turntable and roundhouse. I really need something that provides enough power for the whole layout and I think dcc will do the job. Is the digitrax zephyr extra system a good starter system? I think it puts out 3 amps, which I think will be enough, but I’m not sure. Also, I have about 6 or 7 locos that are going to need decoders. I have 2 small steam engines and 3 diesels. are there any affordable decoders (or sound decoders) for my locos. I am looking forward to a response.
The Zepher is a good starter DCC; it was upgraded a few years ago. If you are going to be running 1 or 2 trains at a time and do not connect a bunch of extra stuff to the system, it shoud be more than enough. At Boothbay Railway Village, we run 4 trains at a time, often with DCC sound and 6 to 10 lighted passenger cars. We have a Rampmeter connected, and I do not remember seeing it much over 3.5 amps.
Check the decoder manufacturer websites; many of them have recommended decoders for various locomotives and manufacturers. Tony’s Train Exchange is a good source for these items. They and Train Control Systems have photos and instructions on many decoder instalations. A good source if your locomotives are not DCC ready, and you can do some soldering.
You could do better than the Zephyr. NCE Powercab is a better choice, but you could also consider the NCE Twin or MRC Prodigy Express 2. The Powercab and MRC give you a tethered throttle while the Twin gives you two controllers in one. The Powercab also has a better upgrade path for the future.All three options are less expensive than the Zephyr.
There’s nothing wrong with the Zepher, it actually has more power than the NCE PowerfCab (by .5 amp). The main difference between the two is that the Zepher has a stationary throttle and the NCE has a tethered hand held throttle. And the preice is about the same (± $10). I personally prefer the hand held NCE.
Another option is to just buy a bigger DC power pack, one with enough power to operate your layout.
Moving to DCC just to gain sufficient power is usually not a reason for converting from DC to DCC.
Rich
FYI, prices at MB Klein, Zephyr Xtra $169.95, NCE powercab $149.95. both are fine sets. As stated the Zephyr has .5 Amp more power. Some perfer the hand held feature of NCE. Both are upgradeable. I have the old 2.5 Zephyr and can run up to six sound locos at a time, although that was just a test, usually I run 3 or 4. Either set would work for you.
The Zephyr allows you to run a loconet and and plug in additional throttles. The Powercab works as a regular throttle with the full NCE system. Something to consider if you’re thinking about expanding or if you are using DCC other places too.
The new NCE web site is a mess, but interesting to find this: The replacement Power Supply for this kit is a P114 (5240221) or equivalent (13.8VDC 1.35A) for the powerCab. If the supplied power supply only puts out 1.35 amps, then the system cannot put 2 amps to the track. They also claim that with a bigger power supply, the Powercab can do up to 3 amps, but not continuously. So 2 amps continuous, IF the power supply is beefed up? Zephyr Xtra is still a full amp higher at 3 amps.
–Randy
I have the Zephyr X-tra, and it does more than enough power for me, I have 4 regular (non-sound) DCC Loco’s, and 7 sound equipped. Usually (on my current layout, which is being changed this summer) run 3-4 sound and 1-2 non-sound loco’s at once, no issues. (Note: I did not connect any extra signals, lighted cars, etc… Just loco’s draw power from my Zephyr. My turnout motors, signals, and accessories have their own power supply. And no lighted cars currently.) I also added in (optional) a DT402 hand-held throttle, as this allows me to run (counting Zephyr throttle) three trains at once, without switching back-and-forth between them. (Usually run two main, one yard sets. Yard will run with the Zephyr, as I placed it near the yard entrance.) The DT402 did up my starting price above 200, but is totally optional and can be added later on. But for just a starter set, the Zephyr is pretty good. (I went with Digitrax, as my LHS at the time did not carry NCE, and his display layout was Digitrax powered, so you could see how it worked, and what could be done. He had two areas with crossing signals, controlled completely by the DCC system. And he knew the Digitrax line inside and out. Easy decision.)
CSXman14,
The Digitrax Zephyr (either the old DCS50 or the new DCS51) will handle your layout just fine. I had first one, then the other, on my 25’ x 50’ home layout. It had no problems running with 5 operators and a dozen locos all at the same time (some with sound). My wiring was very simple, just 200’ of 14AWG wire from one end of the layout to the other, with the Zephyr attached to it about 50’ from one end. There were 22AWG wire drops every 9 feet. I had no serious voltage drop issues at all. Other than the Zephyr, I had a UR91 radio receiver, half a dozen UP5 throttle sockets, and three or more DT400R radio throttles. There were no boosters and no circuit breakers (other than the one in the Zephyr). As long as my operators were careful about breaking up each MU set of locos after each run, I never ran into the slot max limit.
bagal,
What makes the NCE Powercab a better choice? IIRC, when you unplug it, all the trains stop because the handheld is the command station. You have to buy another power booster to keep the trains rolling while you’re unplugged, right?
One thing not mentioned so far is the Jump ports on the Zephyr. One can plug in two old DC throttlepacks into the back of the Zephyr and get two more DCC throttles out of it. This means one can control three individual trains at the same time without any additional costs or significant wiring.
The Powercab is a good system, and so is the latest MRC PA system. But I would not call them a better choice than the Zephyr. Less expensive, but not better. However, as a 16-year Digitrax user, I’m a little biased.
Paul A. Cutler III
If you are having troubles running DC, it might be because of the wiring, maybe defective connections between sections of track,. If this is the case, this will become more apparent with DCC if the wiring is not sufficient.
You should probably feed the layout with at least #16 and #22 feeders
What type of track do you use? I figure with DC you must have some blocks.
Our club use to run DC with fourteen blocks and #22 wire before converting to DCC.
Rich
One more vote for the Zephyr. I had to make the same decision as the OP a couple of months back and decided on the Zephyr for two reasons. First, the PowerCab seemed like too much of a compromise. It seemed a bit more limited in the event I want to expand the number of throttles in the future. The second reason was the jumpers mentioned above. I did not realize what a big deal this was until I used it. I attached a dual-throttle DC power pack I had laying to my Zephryr and blammo, I have three throttles with no additional investment. Now, my brain is too puny to run three trains at once, but I have run two trains at the same time many times and it works great. I know you can switch back and forth using a single throttle, but in the heat of the moment, catastrophic things can happen as you try to get things right. (Yes, that is experience prior to using the jumpers speaking.)
Well, it sounds like the zephyr is the better DCC system. It was very surprising to me that I can use the DC power packs that I have with the zephyr. Well, hopefully I can get it soon because money doesn’t come fast for me because I’m only 14 and get a $20 allowance. Well, I could also use some opinions about my layout. I can’t exactly put in a photo of my layout because the photo insert thing on this forum is sort doesn’t work well. I can discribe it though. I used boxes to lift the track up. Issue is, the boxes sort of tilt a bit when the train goes over them. I’ve already had the train fall off of the boxes. Is there a better way of lifting up the track, possibly with wood? I think a lot of train dudes use that insulation foam, but that’s rather expensive I think. The track I use is a mixture of Atlas True Track, Bachmann E-Z Track, and normal track that was my dad’s. I am looking forward to a response.
The raidroad I’m trying to make is based on a line that ran from Philadelphia to Harrisburg to Sunbury to Hazleton (or Jim Thorpe) down to Philadelphia. If you look up a CSX, Norfolk Southern, or PRR map of PA, you will see the route.
You need a Photo Bucket account or Flicker account to post photos here.
Standard procedure here for posting photos.
Rich