Ever since I’ve had my DCC layout up and running I’ve been in a constant battle with dirty tracks. My biggest problem is the lead locomotive on my coal train seems to pick up dirt on its wheels no matter how much I clean the track. We’ll leave that for another subject. I’ve been using a CMX Clean Machine, a few Walthers Trainline boxcars with the brite boy under them, and one of those Walthers cabooses. The CMX picks up a lot of dirt but I’m pretty sure when I use the lacquer thinner with it it leaves behind a film of dirt. It seems like hand cleaning the tracks with a brite boy is the most efficient method. How do you guys keep your tracks clean?
Any number of methods work, some better than others, but it depends on who is doing the cleaning and the environment in the train room. If I could encourage you to use the search function (see lower right of the last post on any thread…find “Search”…and just type “cleaning track”. You’ll find hours of treatment of this subject. Try “gleaming”, or look for posts by cmrproducts.
I used to do all that too. It was a never-ending battle to keep the track clean. Then I found a thread about the GLEAM process. Here’s a link to start with.
The GLEAM process.
For more just type ‘gleam’ into the search box and click search.
I built one of those John Allen masonite pad track cleaning cars last week. Seems to really be doing the trick. I’m probably going to make two more and run one in each train.
I bought a CMX machine about 6 months ago. I just used it for the second time, so it looks like it will be a semi-annual thing. I’m using alcohol. Once the weather warms up so I can open the windows, I’ll try the lacquer thinner.
Still, I have a Bowser PCC car that just seems to get dirty wheels. The wheels themselves are brass, unlike the nickel-silver wheels on most of my other engines. I suspect that the brass is just picking up all kinds of crud, which, of course, means that I don’t have to go around and clean it off myself.
Do your freight cars have plastic wheels? That’s a big source of track grime. Switching to metal wheels will not only help keep your track clean, it will also give better performance because the rolling friction will be reduced.
MY Atlas locos’ wheels get dirty really fast…although the two Bachmann DCC-On Board locos that are serving on the railroad don’t seem to have that problem…probably because I don’t try to run them really slow like the Atlas’.[(-D]
Thanks for the Gleam suggestion, I might have to try that out sometime
I use a spray by CRC called 2-26. It’s an electrical contact cleaner. The can says it’s safe on all plastics. I spray some on a rag, wipe it on the rails in a couple of places, then run a train around to spread it. I haven’t cleaned my track in over a year. I have also changed all my wheels to metal; the plastic ones picked up a lot of dirt. I bought this many years ago it lasts forever. I’ve seen it at Home Depot and Lowes but don’t know what it costs these days.
Wayne
I’ve been using that stuff for about a month now. MAJOR difference! My trains are a lot more quit too.
I run my trains regularly… Seems to work pretty well.
Lee
Work keeps me busy 7 days a week so a good track cleaning seems to have to take place from time to time for me also. I use a bright boy in the short spurs and tight areas and a hand made track cleaning car for the rest.
Some of us just cannot work, eat, and sleep MR like some others so a good cleaning is always in the works.
I have always run DCC and I have down three things for clean track.
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Walthers car cleaner, not very fancy but helps
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Inspect the track and clean the areas by hand that need it.
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Converting as many rolling stock to metals wheels, seems the plastic ones always have a build up compared to the metal wheels. This could be my brain or lack there of.
I went over the whole layout a couple of years ago and did a good cleaning with a comercial track cleaner fluid (don’t recall the brand). After that I polished the rail heads with Flitz metal Polish. I was surprised at how black the cloth was when I was done. since then I use only Flitz to clean with. I have found that I only need to apply a small amount to a rag wrapped around a small wooden block and go around the layout with a light back and forth motion to clean now. usually I will do this just ahead of a train I am running and in no time I am done. I found I only need to do this about twice per year and this is mainly because I don’t get as much time to run trains as I would like which allows dust to build up on the rails.
Dan Pikulski
Loather just wondering. If this is working for you whats the point in using john allens track pad cleaning car? Do you need both?
I use (made) several John Allen cars (masonite pad) along with CRC 2-26. I also put a masonite pad under a snow plow. That way if I haven’t run the layout for a while, I go out with a special train and plow the snow off the tracks. (And pick up the dirt / dust before a loco gets to it.)
DC is the choice here but I use mineral spirits on a rag to clean my track.
The Longview Kelso & Rainier Ry. uses a Centreline track cleaner with mineral spirits on the roller. The track cleaner is pushed by a MDC/Roundhouse boxcab track cleaner. The Centreline roller wets the track then the first pads of the boxcab are 600 grit sandpaper and teh leas pads are felt to pick up the residue.
DO NOT USE GOO-GONE!!! The stuff makes dirt collect on everything.
I use a CMX Clean Machine every 4-6 months. I make a work train out of it, lol. Keeping your track clean depends more on the environment your layout is in then what type of track cleaning car or method you use. If its in a garage or a damp unfinished basement then good luck avoiding cleaning every week. If its in a finished room with no dust and no humidity then you shouldn’t have to clean more then once every 4 months or more. I always laugh when I hear people say they bought an expensive track cleaning car, like the Clean Machine and then cry about having to clean their track more then once a month. Look around, you see those unfinished walls, bare cement floor and unfinished ceiling in your basement? Do you smell that light musty damp smell? Thats the REAL cause of your dirty track. Look after those issues and your track will stay clean.
The “Gleam” method is the only way for me, after I tried it once. Don’t have to do it very often and really works!
Hal
The best I’ve found is a lint-free rag and 70% rubbing alcohol from the pharmacy section, about onece every month or two. In between times I go around with the bright boy before every operating session. I pay special attention to little-used trackage, as it oxidizez if it doesn’t see an engine now and then. I wouldn’t use laquer thinner because of the residual film that attracts dust, making the problem worse. jc5729 John Colley, Port Townsend, WA
I ran my Clean Machine last night with lacquer thinner for the first time. It had been a very long time since I cleaned my track and a few spots on my helix had actually started to oxidize. The lacquer thinner worked great. One question I have is how folks handle grade crossings, especially when running lacquer thinner over painted or similar grade crossings (which might not like alcohol that strong ) ? Options I see are to bypass them when cleaning, replace them with something that isn’t impacted by lacquer thinner, user thinner material so that the cleaning pad doesn’t hit them etc… For now I bypassed them and didn’t run the Clean Machine over them but that certainly slowed things down and some areas of track are between two grade crossings.