Ant hints on how to wire for DCC a wye track?
Tom
tjerrard, Welcome to the forum! [#welcome]
Basic wireing for a wye is exactly the same as a reverse loop. I would recommend using an automatic reversing unit such as the Digitrax AR1. For more information check out Allen Gartner’s website: http://www.wiringfordcc.com/track_2.htm#a9
Thank you. Any other hints?
Tom
Since you HAVE to stop and reverse at a wye as opposed to continuous running on a reverse loop, you could get away with a DPDT switch wired to reverse the polarity on one leg of the wye.
You can wire a reverse loop that way also, but I went to DCC so I don’t have to worry about throwing toggle switches. For the money I would advise that you go with the reversing unit and just run your trains instead of the track. It really makes it sweet.
Would the train length be limited to the distance between the 3 switches of the “Y”, or could the reversing block extend outward to a gapped section. What would detemine how to set the polarity back on the main for the next train if you extend past a switch?
Bob K.
Bob
You ask a good question and in reality I should have been clearer. With limited space I was thinking of installing a wye that would double as the beginning of reverse loops where the top of the wye returns to the mainline forming the reverse loop.
A much more complex wiring question then my original question let on.
Tom
Howmus
I agree I would rather run the trains then the track.
Tom
tjerrard, I think what you are planning should work without any problems. Make sure that the wye/reverse loop is completely isolated. The only problem that you could have is if more than one train enters the loop at the same time or if you are running a long train with lighted cars or caboose that could cross the gap at the same time the loco crosses the gap at the other end (creating a short). Of course these are the the same issues that are always present with a wye or loop. Good luck!
MRC makes a auto reverser for DCC which is rated at 2 amps now. Cost you about $35.00? much cheaper than a booster from any manufacturer.
True, you don’t need to use a booster. The AR1 runs off track power, is rated to handle up to 8 amps, and sells for $24 at Loys. I would imagine that Tony’s and several other places have comparable prices. http://www.loystoys.com/digitrax/ar1.html There are several other gadgets from a variety of manufacturers out there that can do the same thing for less than any booster would cost.
Thanks everyone.