How do I get my decals to not look like they are decals?? I am decalling an engine and cannot get the decal to look painted on. I cam’t get the decal to cover the details and still show them.
Thanks for any help,
dekruif
You need a bottle of { Walthers solvaset } , this should solve your problem. You can pick up a bottle from your local hobby shop or on line.
Patrick
Beaufort,SC
DRSC
Can i apply it (Walthers solvaset)once there dry??
That’s a good question, I think you can, but you might wait for others to chime in first. Surely someones encounter this same problem at one time or another.
What you could do is…using a scrap peice of styrene and an old decal. Decal the styrene and let it dry. Then try the solvaset… hopefully it will work.
Patrick
Beaufort,SC
DRSC
Sure you can. Also, you can look for a product called " Mr Mark Softer" made by Mr. hobby. it’s in a little green labeled bottle with chinese wrighting.
The name of the game is, when you take the decals out of the water and place them where you want. Get a soft paper towel or cloth and press on the decal. Once pressed., Take the solvent and brush it on and let it dry. Once it has dried, apply solvent again and press again.
Thanks alot.[:)]
dekruif:
Also, I cannot help noticing that the finish of the paint you are applying the decals onto is flat.
That’s no good. Flat surfaces will cause a lot of microscopic air bubbles to get trapped under the decal and cause a horrible silvering appearance.
Decals need a glossy smooth surface to blend in properly. You need to cover the engine with a layer of Glosscote, apply the decals with the setting solutions, let dry, then spray on a layer of dullcote to hide the decals effectively.
I’ve done a few engines in the Southern Ry. Tuxedo scheme. I find it easier to mask and paint the white band rather than use decals for it, and apply just the decal for dulux gold striping.
Ronson Lighter Fluid will do the same as solvaset. Install decal, blot dry with paper towel, paint on thin coat of fluid let dry, spray cote of dulcote. I have used this method on several items and they have all come out great.
Happy Railroading,
Neal
In addition to the problem with the gloss/flat finish problem, you have air bubbles under the decals. You may need to poke those spots with a pin before applying the Solvaset, which will cause the decal to snuggle down. The pin hole gives the air a place to escape.
For this loco, apply the Solvaset and let it do its thing. Let it dry completely, (I’d walk away from it for a day) and see how it looks. You may need to reapply it a few times. Once that is done and looks good, I’d apply glosscote to the whole thing to give it an equal finish. Hopefully that will hide the decal lines some. Let that cook a day or so and then apply dullcote over the top of that.
As said above, in the future apply the glosscote before applying the decals.
First off,make sure the finish is glossy.This helps in hiding decal film.If you are using Microscale decals,apply Micro set where you will be applying decal.This helps adhesion and softens the decal a bit.After the Micro set drys apply Micro Sol which helps the decal adhere to irregular surfaces.Atter drying look for air bubbles,if you see any poke them with a small pin point.Apply more Micro Sol. After everything looks good,apply dull coat or gloss whatever you like.You will then get the painted on look.The micro set is the blue bottle where the Micro sol is the red bottle.Champs decal set is also an excellent product.Dan
Thanks for all the replies. This is actually just a “test” engine(notice the low hood). I just might model Southern in the modern day.