Is it better to apply “decals” before or after the use of “Dullcote/Glosscote”?
Decals should always be placed on glossy surfaces. Otherwise they will “silver” - develop pockets of trapped air underneath, making them look crappy. Apply any coating afterwards, to protect the decals from handling.
Bob Boudreau
I always spray a semi gloss clear coat on beore I apply decals then about a day after I apply the decals I spray with dullcoat and let dry for atleast a day before handling. Word to the wise dont use acrylic clear coats they dont work that well.
I do a lot of decaling, About 100 cars / engine per year. I also print my own decals. This is the method I use with no trouble. I first clear coat the entire model with Future clear floor finish. After that I apply the decals according to the instructions. When I apply the decals I use the Microscale setting solution to ensure the decals snug down real good to the surface irregularities. While the setting solution is doing its job you will notice the decal take on a milky appearance. This will go away once the decal is dry so do not panic. Once dry the decal will have virtually melted into the clear coat. This is when I will apply a second coat od Future to even everything out. If I want to tone down the gloss on the car I will wait untill the Future is good and dry and give the model a coat of flat fini***estors dullcoat.
Dan Pikulski
www.DansResinCasting.com
Dan - are you using Laser or Inkjet decals?
Neither, I use comercially available decals as well as decals I print on my Alps. I tried the inkjet method years ago and had, at best, fair results. I did make some black laser decals once, but was not that impressed with them.
Dan Pikulski
www.DansResinCasting.com
As a custom painter, I have been using PolyScale flat, satin, and gloss acrylics without any issues what so ever. What problems are you having?
You only want to use acrylics to seal decals. Solvent-based clear coats will attack decal film.
I personally use Krylon’s Acrylic Matte Finish.
I’ve clearcoated over decals on model trains, model cars and even restored diecast cars with laquers for the past 30 years and have NEVER had an issue with it attacking the decals. I even thin Testors Dullcoat (bottle) with auto-motive laquer thinner for that dead flat look … narry a wrinkle !!! Laquers dry fast enough that by the time the decal lettering would get “soft”, its dry anyway.
Mark.
Ditto here… Never had a problem sealing decals using Testor’s Glosscote, Dullcote, Floquil Crystalcote, gloss finish or flat finish.
It’s all in how you apply it with the airbrush… You have to spray at an optimal distance so that when the mist hits the model, it almost dries instantly yet leaves an even coat.
[#ditto]
Same here, I use dullcote to seal decals. Dilute it 1/1 with laquer thinner & spray at 30 psi. I have also used pollyscale flat finish, that works also. Take your pick.