Need some advice on custom decal systems. Software, decal film, etc.
Thanks.
I’ve used decal film from Testors, Micro Mark and Detail Master all with decent enough results. I don’t use any special software, generally either a word processor or drawing/graphics program to lay them out.
I have not done any in several years (but will be in the next few months), but I did use Micro Sol and Micro Set when applying them. Then a coat of dullcote or some other finish (I also used floquil satin on some passenger equipment).
My weapon of choice is a decent laser printer, but I also used and inkjet in the past. There is usually some setting spray with an inkjet to prevent the decals from running when you dip them in water. In general, the inkjet does better color rendition.
My extensive experience includes having made one (count them) decal. I bought a structure kit and needed a decal for it (it came with a printed sign I did not want to use). A member here suggested trying to make my own decal. I had the impression that inkjet printing might not work so well basis mixed earlier comments here. I decided to give it a shot. My local Hobby Lobby had clear Testors paper (I needed a red decal and clear background) so I bought it and the Testors decal bonding spray. I used Word (Powerpoint would work as well) to make the decal, trying the standard and dark red default colors available. One of the fonts yielded the big fat lettering I wanted, adjusted to give the 1-1/4" size I needed. I first printed (on a pretty new HP 6600 inkjet) using “normal” setting as instructions stated, but the decal had some streak lines. Those disappeared when I chose the “best” print setting. I had some difficulty getting the decal released from the Testors paper without an edge or two trying to curl up. I succeeded in sliding it onto the structure, using the Testors decal solution (what I have on hand). I did have one edge curl up a bit and could not get it unfurled so I just cut it back with a razor blade. When dry, I sprayed the painted structure and decal with dullcote. Overall, I was very pleased.
Having said that, I have many similar questions related to the OP’s.
a) what brands of paper (clear or white) is preferred and why?
b) is anything preferred over the Testors decal bonding solution for inkjet decal sealing?
c) what decal setting solution is preferred and how should they be used? the Testors says to paint the receiving surface with it and to paint the decal with it after water soaking and before sliding the decal off the paper. Not sure if this softens it too earl
I have a lot of the same questions too. I have used the decal paper by Bare Metal Foil Co. with mixed results. The printing came out great on our Epson inkjet printer. I have coated the decals with either Glosscote or Dullcote.
But like Paul, my decals always seemed to curl too. And they seemed extra fragile compared to commercial decals. If I tried to move them slightly or unfurl them, then the ink would start to break up. Giving a heavier coat of clear spray seemed to make them too thick to snuggle down nicely. I don’t know if I’m doing something wrong or if that’s typical with homemade decals.
I’d sure like to hear other folk’s experiences too.
Jim
I’ve used the decal paper from Testors and have had decent results
The reporting marks and car numbers, as well as the weight info on these cars was done with Testors decals paper, plus I’ve lettered a small fleet of cement mixers for the “Phil McCracken Cement Co” with the same stuff. The only time I’ve had a bleed problem was when I thought I could get away with only 1 coat of sealer.
Otherwise no curling issues. Now I only try to set them with Solvaset…I find Micro-Sol is too harsh.
Also I’ve been experimenting with Krylon “Workable Fixatif” (their spelling) instead of a second coat of Decal Bonder with good results.
My [2c], your mileage may vary, limited time offer, supplies are limited, batteries not included. [:-,]
When I was printing my own decals, I had access to a Xerox Doc 12 printer/copier. I used the “statement” size and manually fed Testors decal paper. I printed with a “coated medium” setting with decent results. I still have some of the Testors paper and a few printed sheets. Before applying or using the decal, cote with a nice light mist of Microscale’s LiquidDecal film (diluted 50:50 with lacquer thinner) to seal the image to the decal film. I found out Testors decal film is not like commercial decals, the edges of the cut area around the image may tend to curl a bit. DO NOT use MicroSol on a homemade decal that is still wet. The clear tracer film will turn to goo, and the printed image will be damaged. Always use MicroSol after decal is dry or almost dry to fix curled edges. I have several models still going strong with my own decals after almost ten years! It isn’t impractical to make your own decals, it just means you will be applying your own decals slightly different then what you are used to.
Chris Palomarez
A year or two back, we upgraded to a Canon Pixma printer from our trusty but ancient HP 720C. Both are inkjet printers. I am much happier with the decals from the Canon.
I use Experts’ Choice clear decal paper. It’s what the store has. You must have inkjet paper for an inkjet printer, and laser paper for a laser printer. They are NOT interchangeable. It’s not a matter of someone degraded results - the wrong paper will not work at all.
I seal my decals with clear Krylon spray. I used to use Liquid Decal Film from Microscale, but it made the ink run on the HP so I tried spray and never wanted to go back. Micro-Set (blue bottle) should be applied before the decal, and brushed on over it to smooth it down, and then Micro-Sol (red bottle) can be used later to settle down the corners and push the decal into the surface. I seal my decals with either a satin finish or Dull-Coat, depending on the effect I want.
Before applying the decal, your surface should be clean and generally smooth. I would recommend a satin or gloss spray for best results. However, you can apply a decal to a rough, weathered surface to get the effect of a rough, weathered sign.
You can’t print white, and light colors suffer as well. What I do to get the colors to come out correctly is paint a white or light-colored background for the decal, either for the whole model or for the area where the decal will go.
If you are making up decals for something you want to look pristine and new, try to work with a light-colored model and use dark letters. This was my first attempt at home-made decals:
