I don’t have any trouble with small decals but when it comes to large ones
such as large lettered names like cooperative or consolidated getting then
centered and square say on the side of a building or loco tender that’s when my troubles begain. I get them off the backing with no problems but then the
fun starts, I have trouble picking them up and sliding then into position, HELP!!!
I end up getting frustrated and end up making a mess of it, there has to be a
easy secret to positioning them. Thanks for your input[:D][:D]
The Harven
As a custom painter I have learned a few tricks for posistion decals.
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get a nice sheath of water on the model in the general area you want the decal to be. This will allow the decal to slide around more easily.
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slide the decal off of the paper close to where its final posistion will be on the model. This puts less stress on the decal.
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once you have it where you think you want it, soak up the excess water with a clean cloth or paper towel. Then hold the model up at a distance to see if the decal is how you want it. If not make any final adjustments now. The decal can still slide fairly easily if any small adustments need made.
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Once the decal is in its final posistion. Secure it down with Solvaset. and let dry.
I hope you find this useful.
James.
If there is a fool proof way to apply large decals, I haven’t heard of it.
Best advice I can give you is to NOT use any decal setting solution until the decal is set in place.
What I do is flood the area with water that the decal will be placed. As I hold the decal with tweezers or tooth pick, I slowly wick the excess water away with a small piece of paper towel. Hopefully the decal will end up where I want it and then I use a decal setting solution.
And if the decal is not in the right place after you have sponged off the water, add more water, and try again.
Decals always work best over full gloss paint.
Allan Lees
You all forgot a very important step. You have to hold your tongue in a 90 degree offset from your nose with a 30 degree twist! Works every time.
James has made excellent suggestions and If I could add to them.
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when the decal is about to float free from the backing is when I remove it from the water.
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I put one edge down on the location of where the decal is going, I then put a finger on the decal and apply minimal pressure. I then pull the backing away and the decal will slide away cleanly. If there are edges curled under I take a small wettened flat paint brush and “scoop” at the curls. Apply lots of water to the edges as it will help float the decal into place.
Hope this too helps
Fergie
I float everything into position with a puddle of MicroSet. After I get it positioned and it starts to dry, then bring on the MicroSol. But, don’t try to change things once the MicroSol gets involved because then it’s too late.
Large decals go on faster and are easier to position, but are harder to hide the film on. I cut the letters apart and put them on one by one when lettering a tender V-i-r-g-i-n-i-a-n. Takes longer but looks better in the end.
One thing I learned the hard way is to NEVER douse a large decal with MicroSol all at once, but rather to ‘anchor’ it at the edges first, let that dry, then come back and do the rest of it. In my early modeling days I had decals distort because of too much MicroSol.
I generally use a combination of the above.
Tools: 1.) A sewing needle - or two!!
2.) Pointed tweesers.
3.) A No. 0 or No. 1 Paintbrush, SOFT NATURAL FIBER
4.) A No. 4 up to a 1/4" Paintbrush - again - SOFT NATURAL FIBER
5…) Manicure Sissors
6.) eXacto Knife - w/ fresh No. 11 blades
7.) Steel Straightedge & HARD cutting surface.
Supplies: 1.) Distilled Water (room temp.)
2.) Decal Solvent
3.) Decal “Sealer”
4.) Gloss Clearcoat
5.) Dull Clearcoat
Procedure: Trim the decal as close as possible with the knife and “shids”.
1.) Use the large bruo pain the entire area where the decal will go with solvent.
2.) Use distilled water, preferably warm, to loosen the decal from the paper. I jiggle the decal with the needle JUST A LITTLE to be sure it is loose from the paper. If you are doing several, make note of the time it takes to loosten. If the decal covers the paper (as they do when I make my own), use the bath to displace the decal just a little.
3.) Remove the decal from the bath by SPEARING it with the needle. SLIDE the decal out of the bath, and hold in position with the needle on the mode. Use the tweesers for your other hand, and remove the needle from the decal, and then use it o work the dedal off the paper 1/4 or 1/2 way. Griip the paper with the tweesers, holding the decal with the needle, off from the paper. Slide the paper out from under the decal. Let the decal float in the pool of solvent.
4.) You may gently puhe decal around wih the needle, and with the small paintbrush. (Also with the back of the knife, or the points of the tweesess) I perfer the brush because it is soft and flexable, not so likely to damage the decal, especially if it starts to soften too soon for me. Postiion it. Do not p
Thanks everybody, I’ve tried your methods and “HELLO” it works.
The Harven
Maybe I’ve missed something in this post. I can’t see where getting the decal of the backing is the problem, but getting it into position on the model. I believe this is a common struggle for many of us. I solved the problem (for me) by using a very soft, very sharp pencil and marking control points on the model just outside the area covered by the decal. I use these “control points” to guide the decal as I slip it off the backing. I then use the techniques others have described in this post to move the decal into final position. I remove the pencil marks before anything is dry so they do not become a permanent part of the model. Removing the pencil marks early on was a lesson hard learned, but not repeated.
Hope this is of some help.
Tom
So that’s what I’ve been messing up on all these years!
You got a lot of replies and I didn’t read all of them so forgive me if I’m repeating.
Prepare the decal destination by mopping it with a coat of microset. Cut the decal as close to the edges as you can, and then soak briefly for 10-30 seconds in warm water. Once it loosens from the backing paper I shift the decal ever so slightly off, just enough so that I can grab the backing paper with my tweezers. Then using a Xacto knife I position the decal as close to the finished location as possible and slide it off. I immediately drop a few drops of water onto the decal to get a nice film of water on it. This will allow you to work the decal into place. Once I get it in place I dab the corner of a paper towel on the decals edge and allow it to soak away the water. Count to ten and then apply some micro-sol to the surface of the decal. This basically melts the decal forming it to the surface it has been applied to.
This method works for me. Be careful not to touch the decal once you’ve applied the microsol. It will literally smudge like wet paint. I learned this the hard way. Also, you may need several coats of microsol. You can tell if the decal hasn’t fully seated. If not just gently brush on another coat. Once it is fully seated and dry, give it a quick coat of dull coat or whatever protective spray you like.
Best of Luck,
Trevor
if the decal is a large one, i’ll usually cut it into smaller sections so the pieces are easier to work with…i’d rather take the time to lay three sections of one decal than try to put one large one in only to have it tear or roll into a ball …and as above use microsol after the decal has been positioned …here’s my website album with descriptions in the lower right hand corner on putting on decals …you’ll have to go to “trains 1 and trains 2” …the decal description starts on page 7 of “trains 1” and continues on page 1 of “trains 2”… http://community.webshots.com/user/bayouman1 chuck
I still haven’t really mastered decalling, but I might add one important tip: always buy TWO sets of whatever decal you want to do. I noticed things mess up sooner when it’s my last shot. good luck.