I have rarely seen (or completed) decals that look anywhere close to good factory lettering. I have not yet tried dry transfers, am hoping the results are better. Who has any experience, and therefore, opinion, about this?
I’m a big fan of dry transfers, and have used them for decades, but I’ve used decals even longer, dating back to the mid-'50s.
Many people don’t care for dry transfers, as in most cases, you get only one shot at placing the lettering exactly where it needs to be.
I’ve done around a hundred passenger cars using alphabet sets (every letter individual), like this one…
…and dozens of freight cars, using a combination of custom dry transfers and stock dry transfer sheets for the dimensional data, for cars like these…
My experience with decals, however, took a longer time to achieve satisfactory results, and I’ve honed it, over time, to get what I would consider results comparable to dry transfers.
This mostly scratchbuilt boxcar was lettered with decals from Speedwitch Media…
…and even under oblique lighting, one would be hard-pressed to notice that the lettering is decals rather than painted-on…
Here’s a procedure
Thanks Wayne for the great instructions!!! Everyone will learn from that post. I saved that one.
Mel
My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
Bakersfield, California
I’m beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Dry Transfers
Pro: No decal film to hide
Con: Cannot be adjusted after they are applied
Decals
Pro: Easy to apply
Con: Must have glossy finish followed by dull finish, more steps
There are a lot more pros and cons to each. I think those are the biggies.
You say you rarely see decals that look good? Just look through any issue of Model Railroader magazine? I’ll bet 99% of the issues have pictures of decals that look great.
This was my Weekend Photo Fun decal project from last weekend.
There is a need to follow a careful process when applying decals. Wayne’s post hass all the information you need.
Like anything else…practice and patience is the key.
-Kevin
Me as well. Information I will need in the future.
Thank you Wayne
At least three of my freight car models were inspired by Doctor Wayne’s postings in here. I am amazed how much I have learned from him.
-Kevin
that has to be the best instructions for applying decals. I have been searching on how to apply decals to some containers I have made, and now I feel confident that I can do it. Thanks, Wayne!!
Wow! I’m blushing. [:$]
Thanks to all for your very kind comments.
I’m always wary of going on at-length when attemping to outline a procedure, as it can be an eyes-glazing-over experience for the reader. I’m heartened to know that my effort will help others, just as I’ve been taught by others here and on other sites.
Thank you again.
Wayne
If you are using Micro Scale decals, or other thin filmed decals, use Micro Sol solution, Solvaset is too strong and can distort the decal.
Also it is best to let the decal dry on the surface before brushing it with the solution, otherwise the decal can float.
While Solvaset is stronger than Microsol, I’ve never had issues with it distorting or damaging a decal, even those from MicroScale.
I’m not a fan of MicroScale’s so-called thin film around the edges of their decal images, though, and now, after using it once, always trim it off completely, when possible.
The decals which I find very hard to set are the 3-D rivet decals from MicroMark. They show little response to Solvaset at all, and on unpainted surfaces, I set them using a very light and rapid application of MEK, using a suitably-sized brush. One pass is the limit, with a second pass usually removing individual rivets.
Wayne
Over the years, I’d come to the same conclusion as Wayne about applying a gloss coat before and after applying decals.
Occasionally some of my buddies would try to tell me that all that does is slow down the process, that it was silly to put the second gloss coat on if I was just going to apply a flat coat over it, or that just using glossy paint in the first place was good enough. I’ve found that doing it pretty much the same way as Wayne does gives the most reliable, consistent and pleasing results.
When going to the effort to paint and letter a model, I prefer to have the confidence that this technique provides.
One place I advise people to never use Solvaset is on decals printed on an ALPS printer.
The line between applying enough and applying too much is pretty fine and a lot lower than for other combinations of decals and solutions. I’ve melted lettering off of ALPS-printed decals a couple of times by using just the slightest bit too much Solvaset.
Generally speaking, if I use Solvaset, I use it diluted with distilled water, but for most decals, the Microscale solutions do the job for me.
Thanks for your re-affirmation of that step, Fritz, as it took me some time to come to the same conclusion.
Something I neglected to mention about lettering with dry transfers is the option to put them on clear decal paper where applying them as dry transfers might give less-than-satisfactory results.
The one I used most was for the end lettering on freight cars, which, depending on the style of the car’s ends, could be relatively easy, while others might be close to impossible.
For both dry transfers and decals, I found it advantageous to put the model in a large (and heavy) beer mug, cushioned by a clean rag or hanky, then placing the mug in the centre drawer of my work desk. This put the end to be decaled at a more accessible height than if it were atop the work surface, and when setting solution was applied, the car could remain on-end.
Incidentally, setting solutions, especially Solvaset, work quite well on dry transfers, which can be useful when the lettering is applied over details that are either in-relief or recessed.
Wayne