I am having the local Staples store take my pictures downsize them and put them on decal paper.My question is,should they spray dullcoat on them and if so how soon after printing?
Thanks Jeff
No, definitely not Dul-Cote.
I assume they will be using a laser printer, and laser decal paper. I haven’t done that myself, but it may not need a top sealer. I use inkjet, which definitely does need a sealer applied before you cut out and apply the decals on your mode. Check the instructions with the paper to see if a sealer is necessary. If so, use something like Krylon.
After the decal is in place and dry, then you might want to use Dul-Cote on the whole model, if that’s the way you want the model to look. I do that for applying signs to brick buildings, plank fences, etc. For trains, though, I prefer a satin finish to cover the decal (and the rest of the model) to give it a smooth finish.
You may want to look on Ebay for a guy that sells graffiti decals done in such a way and describes the process do a search for T2 Decales or search n scale custom graffiti decals hope this helps.
I use an ALPS decal printer, which is based on a totally dry process, and I still would recommend sealing the surface of the decal paper after completing the printing process. Any dry process is subject to scratching, or marring, unless overcoated. I use Floquil Crystal Cote for mine, so that the surface of the decal matches the high gloss of the model on which it is applied. This serves much better to hide the decal’s edges than an application of Dullcote. Obviously, the latter may then be applied over the finished model to produce whatever degree of flatness is desired.
CNJ831
Dullcote, or any spray that leaves a thick film, will give you trouble applying the decals, mainly that none of the setting solutions will work (Solvaset, Microset, etc) and the decal will sit on top rather than snugging down over any details on the surface. Depending on where you got your decal paper, the same outfit should sell a decal sealant or bonding spray. Check for manufacturer’s recommendations. I’ve used the Testors brand decal paper and Bonder with good results. Mine are printed on an ink jet printer and I let the printout dry overnight, then spray with the bonder and allow that to dry overnight. Since you’ll be putting the decal in water to get it ready to apply, then using a setting solution to make it snug down, I’d recommend sealing it to the decal paper regardless of the type printer.
Jeff, forgive me for being fuzzy on modern technology. Please explain as I’m always trying to keep up. You are downsizing photos to put them on decal paper. Are these for scenery? Building interiors? I’m building a layout and am always looking for new ideas and techniques. What you’re doing sounds most interesting.
Thanks [8D]
I recently bought a product called HobbyCal InkJet Water-slide Decal Paper [from Walthers]. This is designed for use with inkjet printers with no need for a sealing over-spray. I have used it a couple of times and it works OK but doesn’t seem to sit down on an uneven surface such as brick so well. It could be that I need to work on this some more. The images are also not as crisp as commercial decals but this could be the quality of the original image on my PC. I am still experimenting. One thing different about this product is that you are instructed to use lighter fluid for setting the decal rather that SolvSet. I would be interested in hearing of any other experience with this product that may be out there.
Alan
Hey Antonio.Alot of the images I need are not made.The way Strasburg Railroad has their lettering,no one makes so I am taking pictures of the things I need ,finding the size I need them to be on my layout.Then get the picture downsized and printed onto decal paper.Found this one place that said yea they can do it,so I sent them images and they replied back they don’t downsize pictures,guess they use forget what they called it,but it won’t look like picture.Had a couple other people say they could sent them images and they never responded back.Tried giving someone business but guess I will have to go to the big chain store.Would rather support a person who does this for alittle extra income but,hey there loss.
Tom, that really isn’t true. I’ve been making my own decals for better than a dozen years, overcoating every sheet I’ve ever done with Crystal Cote and never encountered any setting or film-hiding problems. In fact, my decal applications typically show not trace of edges at all. See the example below.
The simple fact is that you only apply a very thin overcoating, typically using an airbrush so that you can exactly control the amount of overcoating being applied. If one attempts to do the same thing with a brush, or rattle-can, that’s when you run into trouble.
Notice that there is no trace of decal film associated with the decals on either the tender, or box car, as well as how the herald decal has set completely over the rivet detail.
CBJ831
Actually what I stated is true, and you said so yourself in your second paragraph. Dullcote is the trade name of Testors clear paint, usually applied from the infamous rattle can, and this is the product the OP reffered to by name. Since it is lacquer based, per Testors own website, decal setting solutions won’t penetrate it, which is why I recommended the bonding spray made just for this purpose instead of the Dullcote for sealing the decal paper after printing, and before soaking and application. Dullcote should be used only as a final overcoat after the decal(s)