I’m trying to find this out for someone else. Does anyone know how easy a decoder install is in a Proto 2000 E8/9a? Is it a straight, drop-in PNP conversion, or is it more involved? I appreciate the input.
Tom
I don’t know about a straight drop-in. I converted mine with a NCE Silent Running decoder, Walthers Part # 524-139. It took about 20 minutes to wire it in.
Tom,
I have done about 6 Proto E-8 installs. Although some of the newer models do have an 8 pin NMRA plug I decided not to use it and removed the pc board altogether.
It’s pretty straightforward to find the truck pick-up wires, I think LL uses black on both sides but you want to connect the red wire from the decoder to the right side as the locomotive is facing forward. Black to the left.
The motor leads are easy to get to but I have found that LL sometimes uses red on the minus side of the motor. This isn’t a problem if you mess up since you can program the decoder’s NDOT and fix it.
One reason I don’t use the Life Like pc board is that I like to modify the crude lighting for the number boards and headlight. I drill out the headlight molding from the back so I can insert a 16v. gow then I use a second lamp for the number boards so I can keep these lit even when the headlight is off.
Hope this helps, ED
The newer E8’s or the older ones purchased in the mid nineties?
I had an older one and installed a soundtraxx decoder. I replaced the lamps with diodes too. I removed EVERYTHING before installing the new decoder. It took about 2 hours. It’s not hard, just time consuming. I enjoy decoder installing anyway. The only thing I didnt’ get was the “mars” effect lighting, because the soundtraxx el cheapo decoder I installed did not support that. But for $40 bucks what the heck.The sound however is very good, so I can live without the Mars lighting effect. Its nice because you can stick a 1" speaker with no problems behind the cab.
If you need pics I can display them later too if you would like.
Frank…
Anyone know why Soundtraxx dropped the E unit sound decoder from their lineup? It would seem that this would have been a popular seller.
Anyone know why Soundtraxx dropped the E unit sound decoder from thei lineup? It would seem that this would have been a good seller.
I bought the “first” generation soundtraxx EMD decoder and it sounds very much like an E8. So it works for me and sounds GREAT! do you want the exact model number?
That is the correct sound unit for an E8; however, an E8 has two prime movers (567s) instead of just one. So theoretically to be correct it needs two sound decoders. I haven’t seen anyone make a dual prime mover sound decoder.
I know this thread’s a bit old, but if you still have the pics, Frank, I’d like to see them. I have to do an install in an older unit for my wife.
Is the motor isolated from the frame on both sides?
Well there is a sentence that I will never type or utter! [:O]
My wife is very supportive, but I can’t imagine the interest ever stretching to needing a decoder installed! Good for you Mark.
I installed in an E7 which I think is the same chassis as the E8 and the motor was fully isolated.
This is a great thread. I bought a Proto E8 in 1999 and was wondering if it would be easy to add DCC. Any chhoices on which ones would be the easy and simple one to install?
The ease of decoder installation is going to depend on the age of the locomotive and whether or not it has a mars light. The ones I have done were the original versions that had mars lights, and the decoder manufacturers all recommend that the dual-filament bulbs LifeLike used be replaced with something different.
Depends on wether or not it has a mars light. If it does not, then yes a DH163 is an easy drop in (using the 8 pin socket) decoder and you might want to swap out the bulb for a 12 v bulb. If it has a mars light and your using a digitrax decoder you need to swap two wires on the 8 pin harness (see the digitrax site as they do have documentation for which two wires to swap, I think it’s yellow and white or yellow and grey but don’t quote me on that) Then on that same documentation they give you the CV values to activate the mars light. Plus you’ll still want to replace the regular bulb with a 12 v. As all life likes back then came with 1.5v bulbs.
For me, when it was all said and done I hated the mars light bulb that P2K/Lifelike used as it ends up looking lke a friggin beacon, so I’m in the market for a better mars bulb if there is one.
Hope this helps, happy modeling
I’ve found that using the Digitrax FX3 output and the tiny 15ma 1.5V bulbs from circuitron produces a satisfying mars effect. I don’t know how one would mount that tiny of a bulb in the space where that monster factory bulb was. As I recall the factory lens is to shallow too drill a mounting into.