getting ready to jump into DCC… finally…
but I am just wondering…what is the average price of a good decoder…
and is it cheaper in the long run to buy the locos with them already installed than getting the ones where you have to buy the decoder and pop it in?
thanks
again
Mike[8]
Mike,
Depends on what you want from a decoder. Good decoders with BEMF are some where in the $20-30 range. Bare bones quality decoders can be had for as little as $15. Brands to Buy: TCS, Digitraxx, Lenz, NCE, Zimo - avoid MRC
Sound decoders: In flux right now but high quality nice ones are around $100. A cheap one that is of quality can be had for around 40.00. Sountraxx generics are the cheapest, Digitraxx is coming out with some and Loksound and QSI also offer sound as well - Again avoid MRC or at least until the Brilliance is relaesed. Check the sale at Tony’s on Soundtraxx…
Go to Tonys and Loys sites and read up on em’ if you haven’t already done so. Find out about Dither, BEMF, CVs starting voltage etc…It is not that hard and you will be able to evalute what you need more easily…
Mike,
I’m in a similar situation as you. First I look for locomotives that I want from manufactures that I trust. Then I look if it comes with a decoder, if not then if has a connection. Currently if it does not at least have a connector I’ll take a pass since I work in N Scale I have better things to do than muck.
My experience is that adding a decoder to a locomotive with a connector is a slam dunk. Using a service like Tony’s Train exchange to do the installation for you will set you back $75-125 per locomotive. It was worth it to me to have it done on some of my older locomotives but I wouldn’t do it for anything new.
Dennis, I know what you mean, seems alot easier just to put it in the plug or get the new engines that come from the factory with the decoder in it. I too am picking & choosing, and I have to will just paint what I want hahaha on a undecorated engine that has the plug…
The NCE D13SRJ isn;t a bare bones decoder and in 10-packs costs less than $120. That’s under $12 each. It doesn’t have enough funcitons for a modern loco with all sorts of blinky lights, but for mre basic applications it’s got allt he other desireable features. It is a decoder that is meant to be wired in, so a little soldering is needed. Specific fit decoders cost more though - in some cases it’s worth it, such as for many Proto2000 locos that can take the Digitrax DH163L0, but for others like Athearn there’s nothing special about the pre-wired harnesses that clip on to the motor that you can’t do yourself in a minute with the soldering iron.
–Randy
I bought a P2K S-1 switcher recently. It was new in the box, but it’s an older, out-of-production model from a few years ago. My LHS guy pointed out that I needed to isolate the motor on this one. I was very surprised to find a new-age locomotive that had a common frame ground. It wasn’t a big deal to isolate it, but be aware that it’s not just the old ones that might need this.
I’ve also been installing LED’s as headlights, replacing the old incandescents. Again, be aware that the lighting is not necessarily DCC-ready, even on engines with plugs for the decoders. Protos are using 1.2-volt bulbs, which you will fry instantly if you don’t add resistors to protect them. The instructions do point this out, but you still have to do that yourself. As long as you’re in there, you might as well upgrade to LED’s. I’m saving the little incandescents for my cabeese.
Finally, even in HO, everything is a tight fit. I have to use the Dremel to expand the headlight brackets to accomodate LED’s. My S1’s decoder is an eight of an inch higher than the board it replaces, so the shell won’t sit properly. I may have to remove the plug and do my own soldering, which kind of defeats the whole purpose of the plug. And I can’t imagine finding room for a speaker in any of these locomotives.
Consider it a challenge. Once it’s done, you’ll enjoy the results even more.
Bruce,
Despite the fact that, in reality, the Proto 2000 S1 is not really “DCC-ready” (as originally claimed), it’s one sweet little switcher, ain’t it? [^] [tup] Mine absolutely craaaaaawls! I ended up putting in a Digitrax Z-type decoder in mine so I didn’t have to remove the plug.
Tom
Check Litchfield Station, Bruce actually DID install a sound decoder in one of those!
And check my web site, under the DCC section, for my Webshots gallery of my S1, With a little filing I was able to use a DH163L0 decoder and so was able to keep the stock bulbs. I think if I get another I’d just use a small decoder and change the bulbs for LEDs, but the one in the cab is a real pain to get to.
–Randy
My S1 has a light-pipe to get the illumination to the cab-end headlight. Do light-pipes work OK with LED’s? Or is it worth the effort to put the LED right where it belongs?
Light pipes work fine with LEDs. I put LEDs in an Atlas/Kato RSD-4, and I kind of had to leave the light pipes since the lens is molded on to the end of the light pipe. I cut them down some, since they were designed to work with the Kato single bulb in the middle thing, and I wanted real directional lights. Also the P2K SD9 has a light pipe so that one source can illuminate the humber boards and headlight lenses, that too works fine with LEDs installed. The rear one must be removed and the top painted black, otherwise it looks like someone left a light on under the radiators.
On the RSD-4 I used a piece of shrink tube to attach the LED to the end of the light pipe. Before I did that, I use some 660 grit sandpaper to poli***he cut end a bit. PLENTY bright throught the light pipe with a golden-white LED and 1K resistor.
–Randy
Being a newcomer in the DCC area I find that buying engines with DCC installed is easier that doing the wiring for a decoder. I have done both though.
I don’t know if this is allowed but I have found a good supplier of digitrax and MRC and other decoders at firsthobby.com at decent prices. The owner Mike is also very helpful in answering questions if you have any. One thing I have found is that you should practice up on your soldering some before jumping into wiring a decoder. I hope this was helpful.