I’ve finally put up my facia and the room is transformed! I painted it black and now find the UP5 loconet plug in panels glaringly ugly. Has anyone here made a new decorative cover or used an adhesive overlay to make their UP5s better match or complement their facias?
Any methods or techniques to recommend? Pics? Can the electronics be unscrewed from the digitrax panels without damaging them?
Thanks,
Jim
i havnt done this to a up5 panel, but here is what i do for my other panels.
i draw them up in autocad then print them and then laminate them.
on this pic ive chosen to use white for the background and have done colored ones for turnout switch panels.
btw, thanks for the idea for dressing up the up5 panels. i will be changing mine after i get some fascia boards up.[tup]
later
g
The front panels unscrew - they come unassembled in the first place. Remove the front plate and paint it. Or have a new sticker made for it.
–Randy
When I installed a UR91 in the facia panel on my layout I ripped off the tongue of a tongue and groove board to make trim moulding around the edge of it. My facia is hunter green so I left the trim natural pine and gave it a coat of poly. 1/2" half round moulding could also be used. Stain or paint it in a complimentary color to your facia.
It’s the actual unit’s face/panel that I’d like to cover. Maybe some vinyl adhesive backed shelf paper or sump thing? Anyone done anything like that? I just think the digitrax logo and color is kinda cheesy and ugly but like the system.
Jim
You don’t really need UP5’s to plug into if you don’t like the look of them. You can use regular 6 wire telephone jacks which are cheaper and can be painted any color. You can get surface mount type or recessed types. I made a set of 14 surface mount jacks for my clubs show layout to hang on the skyboard. This way we are no more than a few steps away from a control connection. The 6 wire jacks ran $.75 each. They just don’t show track status like the UP5’s do.
Remove 2 screws to remove the face plate then paint it any color you like or cover it with whatever lights your fire.
[:$]Ha, that figures! Just a few minutes ago, I was in the train room and had a “duh” moment. "Shoot, why don’t I just paint 'em, instead of going to the hassle of self adhesive overlays. It would make replacing a UP5 later if necessary too.
I spent last evening looking at many decorative plates online, some with nice steam era graphics or moldings but no two gang and kinda spendy.
I considered using standard wall plate/cover plates for telephone connections but they were much larger than the UP5 and I’m trying to visually keep the electronic/mechanical things low key.
Thanks as always guys. Sometimes I try too hard to reinvent the wheel ,overlooking the obvious (and easy) solution [:$]
Jim
Jim,
You could paint them with that new invisible paint they came out with,it works so good they can’t find it in the stores.[(-D] [(-D]
Cheers, [D]
Frank
Frank that’s a good one[:D] I’ll use that, the next time the Floquil extinction issue comes up in our local group.
I’m going to start experimenting with the UP5s and see if sanding/etching the digitrax coating/paint will be necessary or just spray 'em and be done with it. I’ll start on a corner.
My friend and wire man/bench worm put the panels together for me when I wasn’t looking so I didn’t realize they had originally needed to be assembled anyway. I’m looking into making some nice wood replacement panels before I make the final decision to paint them, but basic black is most likely so paint is most likely too.
It’ll be a little while. I’m finishing up the design/mock up of my city bluff/platform lst.
Thanks guys for the advice and the laughs,
Jim
The UP5 face plate is symmetrical. It will fit with the printed side in. You can paint the back and thus preserve the original paint in case you change your mind. Any rattle can in the Rustoleum display will work.