Hello,
I have been looking at doing a 2 level on and off for the past two years, when space permitted. What I was thinking, was since I have 14 feet long, that I could start the train on one side on a grade going around to the other half of the room by which point it would then enter the top level of the layout an would imerge there-then head over to a small yard there after wards. What I have in mind for the layout-which is why I would like two levels is:
First level:
Rio Tinto Minerals - clay
Quarry
Hartland Spur
Freight Shed
Flour Mill
ARR - Abondon Railroad
Second Level:
Grimsby minerals
Superior Propane
Lumber yard (load outs and store front)
Salvage yard
Freight House
CN Interchange
I can fit this in to a 15x17 layout, but as I mentioned I have a 14x9 room-even with a helix, I loose 4feet with a 24" radius which I would like to avoid if possible. I am looking into the utility room to contain a helix if I can-but again it depends on room and access to the furnace and water heater. Would a ramp up at 2.5% with a pusher operation that I would love to add. So it is just a matter of figuring out what level to put the second part at height wise. I am trying to also figure out how to access the room with a two level layout with out a duck under-is a lift out an option or will this cause me problems down the road
Problem is, 14+9+14+9 = 46’, at a 2.5% continuous grade, which menas no level areas for switching on the lower level, that’s 13.8" Add places where the grade levels out to locate towns or switching areas, and the rise is even less. That’s railhead to railhead, you also need to make allowances for the lower level benchwork. Run down one more 14’ side as just scenery on the top level, and you’ll be 18" high, with all grade ont he lower level. That might be enough, at the sacrifice of one wall’s worth of the upper level for additional climbing.
Check out the two “Guide to helix and staging design” PDF-downloads at the Information Station. Closer examine the two helix/PDF cover pictures to see if those designs give you any ideas for your own layout.
“Double-Up” helix real estate with “Serial Staging on the Helix” are included in each Helix-PDF:
Volume #1 has the “Silvergate Gate Northern” with a helix under one end of a 2-level dogbone-design layout, and: Volume #2 has the 2-level HO Scale “Union Terminal Railway” and underlying helix in a 4’x8’ space.
Only you can make the determination that a properly designed helix makes sense – After careful consideration before construction.
with a 24" radius you will loose more space; 24"is the center line, your helix will be pretty close to 5 feet. Not answered are 2 other questions:
your radius depends on the equipment you’re using, you never mentioned the kind of cars and engines your gonna use.
your radius depends on the grade and the length of the trains you want to run. A 2.5% grade means 3.6" clearance between levels in your helix, just enough? (the subroadbed and roadbed take space too)
Even without a second level, you can work in the industries you mentioned easily; you might have ideas and wishes still unknown to me.
The best way to start is IMHO making a drawing of your room, and try out alternative designs.
Buying some good books might be helpful too. Lance Mindheim published How To Design A Small Switching Layout and 8 Realistic Track Plans For A Spare Room; both available by Amazon.
Track Planning For Realistic Operation by John Armstrong is 50 yrs old, still one of the very best,and Shelf Layouts by Iain Rice are both published by our host.
It is a fundamental law of model railroad layout planning, that what we want always requires twice the space that we have. While your main line may be on a continual grade, switching areas off of it can be level. A helix takes up an inordinate amount of space, and is difficult, if not impossible, to cover with scenery. There are many track plans in the MR files that can offer ideas for you to consider, copy, or combine. Consider scaling back your “wants” and go for quality rather than quantity.