I’ve got two 4x8’ sheets of plywood waiting to be made into an L-shaped layout. I’ve also got a hobby store that’s having a 40% off sale this weeked. I’d like to purchase all or most of the track, lockons, etc. there, but I’m not sure which Lionel tubular track is right for me. All my locos and rolling stock are O27. I have no intentions of ever purchasing or running O-scale equipment. Does it make more sense to buy O27 track, or the doubly expensive O track?
My concerns are that O27 curves might be a bit too sharp for speeding trains. O scale has wider curved track, but is more expensive.
I should also mention that I have accumulated a lot of Fastrack, and am leaning towards using it on my outside loop. So, O27 or O31 for an inner loop? I’m open to suggestions.
Jim, I would do the widest curves you can get to fit. Fasttrac will give you roadbed which will look good. If you interconnect the two loops [which you should], then you will have to roadbed the tublor or ramp it to match the higher Fasttrac. The temp layout I have on the carpet in the spare room is 027 tublor because I had so much of it from the old layout I had in 85. I got 072 curves in 027. Can run trains at the max and not derail. I also put some straight or half straight sections in to ease the curves. “Lost corners” due to wide curves can be landscaped, buildings or even short sidings [trains will run through the curved portion of switches just like they will run through the straight section]. I’m going with Realtrax for the roadbed and then ballast it.
If you can fit it in O42 curves in the lower profile O27 track are really nice. All my engines run better and rolling stock track better around them. Maybe use the Fastrak as the inside loop and O42 on the outside.
I agree with spankybird about using K-Line switches. I have three Lionel 027 switches in 40" curve and am replacing them with K-Line switches as soon as I get them from
K-Line. My loco kept dying on the Lionel switches.
Vern, did you rewire them to run off of external power. That helps. I have one and it was really messing up things. Rewired it and it is OK. Tom is right about K-Line switches.
Jim, another thing to consider is the future. I had O27 as well, and never had any intention to go larger. But now I’m building a bigger layout and I’m going all Gargraves O72. All the money I spent on smaller switches was a bit of a waste.
So my recomendation would be to use the O27 track if you want, but look at the other diameter curves they make in the lower profile. Try to stick with O42 switches in O-27 profile for the smoothest operation.
Thank you all for your input so far. You’ve given me a good deal to consider, especially about using K-Line switches instead of Lionel’s.
I have a lot of FasTrack, and to be honest, I like the way it looks. I like the tight connections, and I just plain hate to waste it, so to speak. The problem with it is that it limits me in what I can do.
The O27 track gives me a lot more freedom of design, and if I went that route, I’d use the 42" curves on an outer loop. I’m an O27 “train runner” that likes to open the trains up a bit, not operate them at scale speeds. Although I’m not a speed demon, I’m concerned about the higher speeds and tight 27" radius causing crashes.
The O guage track comes in 31" 42", and 54" radius curves, and seems to be the most logical choice. The down sides are the price and the high rail.
By all means, please feel free to reply. Your knowledge is greatly appreciated by this novice!
In your case I’d go with 027 72 inch diameter curves and 042 turnouts. I never could figure out why they never came up with 072 turnouts in 027 track. Lionel in fact, abandoned any new advances with their track system and instead went with Fasttrack.
A shame, imo.
Better to get one track system right than have two systems that are half a**.
Jim, though still too large, O27-profile track is a lot closer to the right height than O31 is. It is available in 27, 34, 42, 54, and 72-inch nominal diameters. I use all of it at various places on my layout. It can be handy to have the O27 curves when you need them in a tight spot, even if you use gentler curves elsewhere. Consider using spiral corners, for example, 72-34-72 and 54-27-54, rather than inserting straights into corners. Spirals are prototypical, work well, and avoid the look of tight curves while taking up little extra room.
O34 was made by Marx and is still not hard to find, on Ebay and at train shows. I have disciplined myself to have one loop with no tighter than O34 curves, so that visiting O31 equipment can run.
Elliot did one for me over a year ago. I will modify it a little to suit my personal wants. Look in books and CTT. Sometimes, just lay track. Good luck.
O72 is too wide for an L-shaped layout of two 4x8s, so I’d go with O42 or O54, if you’re lucky enough that they have O27-profile O54 track. My layout (still in the planning phase) is an 8x8 that’s going to have O42 on the outside with Marx O34 on the inside, all O27-profile. I think I’m going to sneak in a single O27 loop where I have room (there are a couple of places) where I can run one short train.
Your Fastrack would fit comfortably inside an O54 loop. I’ve never tried Fastrack inside an O42. I have a loop of Fastrack, but it’s relegated to floor testing and Christmas tree duty because I have so much O27. Keep that option in mind if you have difficulty working your Fastrack into the layout–Fastrack is easy to set up and break back down and the roadbed protects your carpet from your engines and your engines from your carpet.
I’m not a big fan of O31. The track is more expensive and the switches are a lot more expensive. I prefer to use wide O27-profile track.
If you’re ambitious, you can build your own switches. Here’s a link: http://www.tcamembers.org/articles/operating/marxsw/index.html I have a couple of his switch manuals and the materials are pretty cheap. Aside from the track, you’ll need less than $10 worth of materials per switch. I haven’t been ambitious enough to try building them yet, but if you’re handy, you can build O27-profile O54 switches, curved switches, and other stuff using his plans.
If you are going to connect the FasTrack to the other track your trying to decide on keep in mind that Lionel only makes an O gauge transistion piece for FasTrack, not an 027, so it would take some customization on your part for the transition with anything but O guage track.
I use all O-27 track and mostly 27" switches - I had loads of it from when I was growing up. On my current layout I use 42" curves on all but 1 of the curves on my L-shaped layout (13 x 18). I am rebuilding parts of it to use 54" curves for the outside loop and 42" on the inside loop. I also am going to use some 72-54-27 for 1 of the curves on the inside loop. I too have been converting all of my Lionel switches over to the K-line models, I have alot less derailments and they look really nice.
Still consider the 027 track… K-line now makes wide radius curves, i.e. 42’s, 54’s, and 72’s.(which is basically is what consists of O radiuses) I’m also pretty sure that they do make the low-profile switches in the same radiuses as mentioned above.
Im thinking you could also make custum curves by getting the 30" straight sections and bending them by heating up the rails with a torch slightly, until it is possible to bend the rails to the radius you desire.
Jerry, the K-Line straight sections are 36 inches, not 30. They can be bent slightly, but I sure wouldn’t take a torch to them. By the time you got the steel hot enough to do any good, the insulators, paint, and tin plating would be gone. An easier way to customize a curve is to make a spiral and vary the proportions of the different-radii curves used.
