Has anyone used this detail and decal remover? If so how did it work? I am most interested in removing some painted on road names from some rolling stock. As always thanks.
http://www.joesmodeltrains.com/Paint%20and%20Decal%20Remover.htm
Brent[C):-)]
I haven’t tried that yet, but I’ve had good results using Solvaset and a rubber eraser to remove factory applied lettering.
Depends on what the manufacturer uses for the lettering. I’ve used Mr. Clean, 91% alcohol, Solovoset etc. The biggest problem was with Kadee hopper cars. Couldn’t get it to budge, called them & was told they used the same paint as the body. Didn’t make sense because they only offered 1 number for each road name.
All sorts of products and methods as mentioned, there are some that are really stubborn and I will very carefully scrape them off the shell w/ an extremely sharp Xacto chisel (constantly sharpening/ honing). This works OK for smaller heralds/ numbers, would be rather tough on large pad printed stripes, etc.
I weather almost all my equipment so scuffing the factory paint surface doesn’t bother me. Usually applying the gloss or Future floor finish, will disguise the work area anyway. Redecal and clear coat and the work is unnoticable.
I haven’t used the Joe’s product, either, so can’t help with that.
Generally, if it’s something you’re not sure what will work, then start with the least aggressive stuff and work your way up. Solvaset or other decal fluid is probably least aggressive, then 91% alcohol, then abrasive methods. Not sure where Mr. Clean falls in that order.
Not sure if this works on Kadee printing, but it does work on Micro-Trains stuff and they are loosely associated if separate companies, so wouldn’t surprise if it works for Kadee, too. Use one of the citrus-based products like Goo Gone or Good Off. You’ll need to be quick, I use a cotton swab, rolling it over the lettering, then quickly wiping it off with a paper towel. If you linger, it’ll start removing the paint, so speed and a delicate touch are important to preserving the underlying paint.
Haven’t used it either. Depending on what the manufacturer used for the decal/lettering I use either 91% alcohol or non-acetone nail polish remover. I bought a 10 oz bottle of the nail polish remover some years ago and I’m still using the same bottle. I’ve used about 1/3rd of it. Stuff lasts a long time and at about $3 it’s a good value.
Thanks Guy’s.
I ran into a guy that does custom painting at the LHS yesterday. He said it works well, especially when all else fails. I think starting by trying the least aggressive methods makes good sense.
It may be a fairly new product, I’m not sure. I will spend the 10 bucks if some of the other home solutions mentioned don’t work well.
Brent[C):-)]