Detailing Switches with Switch Stands

Looking for a recommendation for switch details on mainline and sidings for the modern era. Atlas Custom line turnouts powered by Tortiose. I am modeling modern day Pan Am so switch stands and remote switch controls for New England.

Thanks in advance, Derek

Hi, Derek

I have a couple of DetailsWEST SM903 switch motors that I have used to detail a remote power operated switch. They look pretty neat and add the right touch for a main line switch.

http://www.detailswest.com/trackside.htm

I also have a few Caboose High switch stands but they are really delicate and if you intend to use the switch frequently you might be better off to use it more for decoration.

http://compare.ebay.com/like/360625048577?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

Hope this helps you out, ED

Agreed. I have 8 of these in a downtown passenger station, but I am about to remove them and replace them with Tortoises and Tomar Industries dwarf signals.

The Caboose Industries high switch stands are too delicate and, besides, the details are too small to see on the layout.

Rich

Derek.

NJ international has switch stands. These are operating stands.

http://www.njinternational.com/hoswitch.htm

Central Valley has static kits that can be made to have the targets turn.

http://www.shop.cvmw.com/SwitchStandKitw-targets-6-1604.htm

Pete

Thanks Guys for the info.

Ed, the remote motor details of the Details West products was just what I was looking for.

Rich, the Tomar stuff sound interesting to, anything to add more interest.

Pete, I knew about the NJ stuff but they are out of stock for right now.

The switches are mostly main line so will get a lot of use so Caboose sounds like it is out of the running.

Thanks again, Derek

I don’t know how true to prototype you want to be, but here is something that may be of use to someone.

http://www.waynes-trains.com/site/Signals/OtherSignalStuff/LED-SwitchLamp.html

Gosh Elmer, I checked out that link and the idea is so simple.

I do have a question though, it doesn’t show a resistor in the diagram. Is one not needed with a Tortoise? It would seem to me with 12vdc that it would need one?

Thanks for the great idea, Derek

Considering that you’re interested in the modern era, all these examples posted probably won’t be the best bet… they all seem to have switch targets with lanterns which is… decidedly out-of-date for a modern layout. These days switches, be they high-stand or not, will just have reflector targets.

Derek:

The LED is in series with the Tortoise and the current draw through this system is within the safe limit for the LED. I think Elmer’s idea is neat too.

Joe

As was said, no resistor is needed if you wire it in series with the tortoise motor as shown.

This switch stand actually comes from Bob Farrell who originally posted it here some time back. I thought it was so neat that I got his permission to put it on my web site so I could share it.

UpinCT:
You say you need modern era switch-stands, you didn’t state you needed them to be operational, only switch detailing-level, and you state you know about NJ International.

So why did you not specifcially exclude NJ “Phol Low Design” switch stands, which are reasonably common 21st Century switch stands - at least I first saw them around 2002 or so.
Too pricey, I guess, although you can hunt around to get bargins on them…

Thanks Elmer and Joe about the clarification on the resistor. Elmer thank Bob for the idea.

So another question on the LED idea. If I was to put another LED (same type of LED as on the switch) to indicate on the panel, I should have no problem as long as it is in series? I would have the 2 LED’s on the same power leg on a DPDT coming from the panel.

Hi C,

I’m still researching but isn’t the switch stand you gave a link for more of a yard stand than a mainline thing? I am modeling Pan Am so its some of the oldest trackage in the country. So far on the prototype I have only seen the modern star type which NJ also makes

Thanks for the link, Derek

UPinCT,

Using a second LED would work as you suggested, just make sure they are wired correctly as they both need to turn Red or Green at the same time. I had planned to do the same thing on my layout, just haven’t gotten there yet.

Elmer,

Thanks for sharing my idea with everyone; it was nice to see my pics going around again. That is what I love about this forum; sharing ideas to help others in the hobby.

-Bob Farrell