It will not be long before I will need to finally place my turntable so it is getting to be decision time.
All I need is a 72 (scale) foot turntable (HO scale). The longest engine that will be turned on this turntable is a 2-8-0 Consolidation which has a 9" wheelbase and a 10" overall length. A perfect maximum match for the turntable.
I have a Diamond Scale 72’ turntable kit still in the box (and has been for years). However I have read a number of negative articles about Diamond Scale turntables being very hard to build and even harder to get to operate correctly. If I go with the DS turntable I will use the manual gear drive (which I also have).
I am looking for current input about building and operating Diamond Scale turntables.
In my mind, my alternative would be to go with the Walthers RTR indexed 90 foot turntable. My primary issue with this choice is size and the additional space it will require. The DS turntable just fits better and matches the theme and the (future) FSM roundhouse that will go with it.
Experiences with Diamond Scale turntables requested.
Thanks,
-John
I’ve built a couple DS turntables. They turn out nice but make sure you keep everything square and centered as you proceed. On my last one I needed to trim the bridge ends a bit to assure it didn’t bind against the pit edge.
Decide how you are going to wire the turntable before proceeding. I prefer cutting the ring-rail into four parts. Two opposite parts are wired for opposite polarity (one +, one -) and turntable wheels on opposite ends are wired to the different turntable rails. The other two ring-rail sections, opposite each other and not in line with any tracks leading to the turntable, are dead. These dead sections should be no larger than needed to prevent an electrical short when the turntable moves from one section of the ring rail to another section. The polarity of the tracks leading to the turntable need to be the same as the turntable polarity when it is aligned to the particular lead track, so consider this fact before cutting the ring-rail into sections.
Mark
As did the Walthers older version of the 90’ turntable for which one could purchase a motor, I think some, not all, of them suffered from deformed/miscast pits. In my case, the inner contours of the pit were such that I could not get the bridge to rotate 180 deg (let alone 360). I finally gave up on using a Dremel grinding stone to scrub away styrene in places where I “thought” it was binding.
To Rusty, I now have the indexed built-up 90’er, and it is a true gem…a marvel. The price is worth every penny to have that device work reliably when I want it to do its thing, particularly when I have interested onlookers.
Would it be worth the trouble to contact DS and explain that you would like assurances you can return the TT if it doesn’t work as you’d like? If you can nail them down a bit so that you feel you have some freedom to “do things” before you void any warranty, it may make the project a bit more palatable. I can sympathize that jumping up to a larger TT is going to tend to spoil things a bit.
-Crandell
I have a used built up/powered Diamond Scale 90’ that I picked up at a train show and it runs OK. I recently purchased the Walthers built up/indexed 90’ TT - Now we are cooking with gas! It was expensive(about $200 through an on-line dealer), but it works ‘out of the box’, is quiet and the indexing is very nice.
Turntables are one of the most sensitive layout items and building them requires precision work. I built a turntable based on the Atlas unit for a base many years ago and while it works perfect, the noise from the drive was always an issue. I am surprised that Atlas has not released a new replacement for their old standard.
Jim