I have been collecting Lionel trains since the mid-80’s and recently decided I would like to move into HO and ultimately build a layout.
I have joined a local club and have been reading what is available on construction techniques.
One thing that caught my attention was the use of steel studs in place of conventional lumber for building a layout.
I recently went to Home Depot to check on pricing and generally nose around available materials. One thing that caught my attention was the metal framing that is used for drop ceilings. It is basically a T shape or trestle design and comes in 12’, 4’ and 2’ lengths. There are cuts in the 12’ length on 2’ centers so as to be able to interlock the cross members.
Structurally it is very strong and you can’t readily bend it on the vertical plane.
I envision a 12’ x 4’ rectangle with bracing every 2 feet. In between would be luan ply cut to fit and screwed or glued to the channel with insulation foam on top. The plywood would act as large gussets for stability and would allow for mounting switch machines and wiring underneath.
You could add a painted wooden pine channel around the outer edge to finish the platform.
I was trying to look at possible ways to support the platform and in the plumbing dept. they sell 1/2" threaded pipe in various lengths up to 60" with available flat flanges that could be screwed to the luan on say 4’ spacing.
I thought that if I wanted to get really creative, I could add the flanges to the bottom of the threaded pipe. Mount some plywood pads and add casters. I’d probably add some lightweight horizontal bracing for added integrity between the supports. A fairing strip using conduit clamps to the 1/2" pipe.
That way the whole platform could roll if necessary.
I would be interested what the collective minds on this site, have to say about this idea.
I have seen/read of many using the metal wall studs for structural framing of a model railroad but not the suspended ceiling stuff. I have installed the dropped ceiling in several homes and find that it is NOT that strong for structural support other than the ceiling tiles it was meant for. I personnaly would not use them. I would try the metal wall studs, or the old standby, 1x4 wood using the L-girder method, which is what I did. Just my thoughts on this.
I like the idea of drop ceiling metal grid / channel as a frame work with foam over luan. Not so sure about using 1/2" metal pipe with flanges for legs. My concern it the luan alone would keep the legs stable enough and cause you problems when moving the layout.
It is hard to envision a layout that is intended to be movable that doesn’t have a 1"x4" wood frame. I am not sure I see the benefit of using metal pipe over wood especially when it comes to ease of building, but that’s me.
As far as steel studs they are quite flimsy until secured into a rigid frame. I do like the out of the box thinking however.
Interesting concept. The price and speed of assembly are certainly attractive.
I worked part time for Home Depot for a while after I retired, and one of the products I sold was the drop ceiling components. Personally, I don’t think the ‘T’ bars are strong enough to do what you want, and the joints have almost no strength at all. Unless you had some sort of framework supporting the assembly (i.e. 1 x 4s) it would be rather wobbly. The luan would keep the frame square more or less but it won’t stop the flexing. Your track and scenery won’t like being flexed up and down. If you did build a 1 x 4 frame, the ‘T’ bars would be redundant.
I will add that, from what I have read, one of the key charactaristics of good bench work is that it be solid and strong.
There was several comments about the structural integrity of the metal and its ability to support weight.
I really don’t think that you could readily take one of the supports and bend it. Moving it on the horizontal plane perhaps, but it would take some work to bend it otherwise.
The places where the pieces interlock would certainly be a weak spot, but the plywood would hopefully have a stabilizing effect. I wonder if you could solder the joints?
As to the pipe flanges connecting to the luan top, I had always envisioned using up to a 1/2" pad at these points for added reinforcement.
I guess that the only way to test my theory is to actually try and build a test layout.
I’m trying to clear the necessary space to start a layout in my basement.
In the interim, perhaps the Model Railroad Staff is up for the challenge?
If you want light weight AND sturdy, consider a box fram construction of lightweight materials, such as shown here as done by the Sipping and Switching Society of NC.
Their modules are EXTREMELY light, yet also sturdy enough to survive constantly being handled for setup and teardown as well as travel to shows all over the place. Far more rigid than you’ll get from drop ceiling track, and lighter than any 1x4 framed section would be.
Not to hijack your thread, but I’ve been thinking of using a frame made of steel studs, with luaun screwed to the frame. I’d then put insulation board on top of the luaun. Also, END had an article a couple years ago where the author basically used sheets of faced insulation board, with very little to support it (as I recall, his framework was far less substantial than the metal stud frame I plan to use). Just some thoughts.
Have you ever worked with metal framing. I have a few days experience doing metal stud framing. Lots of very sharp edges. Unforgiving screw installation (if you overdrive a screw it either breaks off or strips both the screw and the hole in the stud.). Working with L girder supports is a lot easier and takes minimal tools, battery powered drill, some type of saw and a square are about all that is needed.
I second the the comment about the Sipping and Swiching Society’s construction standards. Their layout is really impressive and highly transportable.